Today: 15.32 mi
Trip: 645.17 mi
Packing up this morning put us right back into our routine. We hit the water early feeling the last nine days of paddling.
Coming out of Cornucopia we rounded Roman Point. What a treat! The whole shore was rock caves and arches; all the way into Bark Bay. They may not have been as spectacular as the ones we had been seeing, but they were not bad either.
We stopped for a quick break at the beach in Back Bay. The shore was fairly populated but there was a nice boat ramp on the NE side of the bay.
As we rounded Bark Point we had every intention of Paddling to Port Wing. Best laid plans often change and we stopped in Herbster instead. Now, we knew there was not a campground in Port Wing and our camp host from Little Sand Bay informed us of this gem at Herbster. The campground was right on the water with tent camping just off the beach. There was a bathroom, water, and no shower. We even hiked the massive two blocks into town for Dinner at Woody's. The only downfall was no cell service but the grocery store had wifi so it all worked out.
Friday, July 30, 2010
Day 42-July 25, 2010
Launching this morning was bittersweet. It would have been fun to sit around and chat with our new friends all day but Superior was calling. Our send off was the biggest one yet. Once out on the water the silence came back and we were missing the socialization already.
Rounding Sand Point we took a few good hits from waves. All we could say was seriously?!? Things did calm down, but not until after the washing machine reflective waves off the point. The beautiful sand beach just before the next round of cliffs was calling our name for lunch. Apparently it was calling others too for we were with some 40 other kayakers.
Paddling the caves before Sqaw Bay were something else. The Beast was too large to get into most of them but we did travel through a few sea arches before the day was through. The beach at Sqaw Bay offered a good break with bathrooms before we rounded Sqaw Point.
There were far less people and rock formations around Sqae Point. A dirty sand beach at Cornucopia awaited us. We camped away from the harbor entrance but found ourselves near some off shore springs. Apparently an attraction for locals. We had to wait a while before putting up our tent. We swam in the clearer water near the harbor to cool off and took a nap on the beach.
Rounding Sand Point we took a few good hits from waves. All we could say was seriously?!? Things did calm down, but not until after the washing machine reflective waves off the point. The beautiful sand beach just before the next round of cliffs was calling our name for lunch. Apparently it was calling others too for we were with some 40 other kayakers.
Paddling the caves before Sqaw Bay were something else. The Beast was too large to get into most of them but we did travel through a few sea arches before the day was through. The beach at Sqaw Bay offered a good break with bathrooms before we rounded Sqaw Point.
There were far less people and rock formations around Sqae Point. A dirty sand beach at Cornucopia awaited us. We camped away from the harbor entrance but found ourselves near some off shore springs. Apparently an attraction for locals. We had to wait a while before putting up our tent. We swam in the clearer water near the harbor to cool off and took a nap on the beach.
Day 41- July 24, 2010
Today: 17.73 mi
Trip: 615.65 mi
No sun this morning, just gloomy clouds, light NE winds and swells between us and Devil's Island. We packed up in a light rain shower and headed out onto the water.
Taking the 1-2 ft waves broadside was not exactly a nice way to make the crossing, but we made it nonetheless. We tucked into the harbor on the south side before taking the lee side of the island to look at caves. They were impressive. Even though we were in The Beast, we were able to travel through some of the arches. We tried to round the north end of the island but got only as far as the lighthouse before the waves started being too stupid.
After chatting with some weekend renegade paddlers from Duluth we made the crossing over to Bear Island. We had a nice following sea that gently pushed us along. We stopped briefly at a cobble beach for lunch. As I was visiting the woods a ferry boat came around the corner! I tried to rush out to the kayak before the big waves came but slipped on some rocks and catapulted myself into the water instead. Grace and style never were my forte.
Since the crossing to Bear went well we continued on to York Island. The waves were thinking about picking up but laid back down instead allowing us to make the final crossing to Little Sand Bay.
We were greeted fondly at the Town of Russell Campground. A kayak hub for the area. I had severe boat envy watching all the boats go by. We parked our minivan of a boat in the beach and spent much of the evening chatting with fellow kayakers. There were groups from Iowa, Minnesota, and the camp host was one in a million. We headed to bed late with intentions to sleep in. We hit our 600 mile mark today! No pressure for tomorrow.
Trip: 615.65 mi
No sun this morning, just gloomy clouds, light NE winds and swells between us and Devil's Island. We packed up in a light rain shower and headed out onto the water.
Taking the 1-2 ft waves broadside was not exactly a nice way to make the crossing, but we made it nonetheless. We tucked into the harbor on the south side before taking the lee side of the island to look at caves. They were impressive. Even though we were in The Beast, we were able to travel through some of the arches. We tried to round the north end of the island but got only as far as the lighthouse before the waves started being too stupid.
After chatting with some weekend renegade paddlers from Duluth we made the crossing over to Bear Island. We had a nice following sea that gently pushed us along. We stopped briefly at a cobble beach for lunch. As I was visiting the woods a ferry boat came around the corner! I tried to rush out to the kayak before the big waves came but slipped on some rocks and catapulted myself into the water instead. Grace and style never were my forte.
Since the crossing to Bear went well we continued on to York Island. The waves were thinking about picking up but laid back down instead allowing us to make the final crossing to Little Sand Bay.
We were greeted fondly at the Town of Russell Campground. A kayak hub for the area. I had severe boat envy watching all the boats go by. We parked our minivan of a boat in the beach and spent much of the evening chatting with fellow kayakers. There were groups from Iowa, Minnesota, and the camp host was one in a million. We headed to bed late with intentions to sleep in. We hit our 600 mile mark today! No pressure for tomorrow.
Tuesday, July 27, 2010
Day 40- July 23, 2010
Today: 24.76 mi
Trip: 597.92 mi
Happy Birthday Brad!!!
A south wind was blowing as we launched out of Bayfield which gave us a nice push all the way to Redcliff Point. We saw two kayak tour groups along the way and decided to make our first of three crossings for the day. At just under two miles is should not have been bad. Let's just say we were wrong.
Starting out, the crossing was going great. There were very small waves slapping the boat and a slight breeze. Oh how quickly that changed! We were in the middle of our crossing when the wind really started to blow. The waves built to two footers in just a few minutes. They kept building and stacking closer and closer together. I am almost certain we ran over a few four footers before the crossing was done. We could hardly set a ferry angle to reach the shore but we did eventually make it. We landed on the sand spit and chatted with a local guide from Living Adventures. We were all amazed at how the weather had picked up.
After a break to settle our nerves we headed east and then north around the non windy side of Oak Island. We took another break before the crossing to Otter Island to evalute the weather. We took a following sea with 2 ft waves. From the dock we rounded the island and went straight into the crossing to Rocky Island. We encountered wind but no waves that time.
We had dinner on the south end of Rocky Island before heading around to the north end for some back country camping. Paddling along today I was able to see most if the islands. Our camp for the night, however, faced Devil's Island- our intended destination for tomorrow.
Trip: 597.92 mi
Happy Birthday Brad!!!
A south wind was blowing as we launched out of Bayfield which gave us a nice push all the way to Redcliff Point. We saw two kayak tour groups along the way and decided to make our first of three crossings for the day. At just under two miles is should not have been bad. Let's just say we were wrong.
Starting out, the crossing was going great. There were very small waves slapping the boat and a slight breeze. Oh how quickly that changed! We were in the middle of our crossing when the wind really started to blow. The waves built to two footers in just a few minutes. They kept building and stacking closer and closer together. I am almost certain we ran over a few four footers before the crossing was done. We could hardly set a ferry angle to reach the shore but we did eventually make it. We landed on the sand spit and chatted with a local guide from Living Adventures. We were all amazed at how the weather had picked up.
After a break to settle our nerves we headed east and then north around the non windy side of Oak Island. We took another break before the crossing to Otter Island to evalute the weather. We took a following sea with 2 ft waves. From the dock we rounded the island and went straight into the crossing to Rocky Island. We encountered wind but no waves that time.
We had dinner on the south end of Rocky Island before heading around to the north end for some back country camping. Paddling along today I was able to see most if the islands. Our camp for the night, however, faced Devil's Island- our intended destination for tomorrow.
Monday, July 26, 2010
Day 39-July 22, 2010
Lake Superior was flat as a pancake this morning. Our original plan was to cross to Madeline Island before making the cross into Bayfield. Since things were so calm and the distance relatively short, we went straight to Bayfield knowing we could bail onto Madeline with little effort.
Heading into Bayfield it became more apparent as to just how busy of a harbor it is. There were car ferries every half hour, numerous sailboats, power boats, and tour boats all departing from the same general area. It was a real-life frogger game as we made for the public beach just north of the ferry dock.
We walked into Bayfield looking for coffee and burgers. It was early for lunch so we split a cinnamon roll and coffee from Egg Toss before we got our permits for the Apostle Islands. Lunch at Maggies was a treat and we swung by the post office for our mail drop. I an sure we drew some attention walking through town with IKEA bags full of supplies.
After we repacked the kayak, we headed to a cabin for the night. Hot showers awaited us but alas, no TV. No bother.
Heading into Bayfield it became more apparent as to just how busy of a harbor it is. There were car ferries every half hour, numerous sailboats, power boats, and tour boats all departing from the same general area. It was a real-life frogger game as we made for the public beach just north of the ferry dock.
We walked into Bayfield looking for coffee and burgers. It was early for lunch so we split a cinnamon roll and coffee from Egg Toss before we got our permits for the Apostle Islands. Lunch at Maggies was a treat and we swung by the post office for our mail drop. I an sure we drew some attention walking through town with IKEA bags full of supplies.
After we repacked the kayak, we headed to a cabin for the night. Hot showers awaited us but alas, no TV. No bother.
Day 38- July 21, 2010
Today: 18.92 mi
Trip: 566.71 mi
Well the sand beach last night was great. We rounded the rocky Marble Point to find more sand. In fact, all the way up Chequamegon Point was a long, sandy beach. Having our pick of landings and seeing quite a few deer were the highlights of our day. The straight shoreline grew a bit tiresome but that may have been excentuated by the moderate headwind we encountered all day.
At any rate, we did paddle through the indian reservation (Chequamegon Point) onto Long Island. After fighting the headwind all day, we were in no mood to take on two crossings into Bayfield. We set up camp near LA Point Lighthouse and fell asleep with the sound of fisherman in the channel and the lights of Bayfield in the distance.
Trip: 566.71 mi
Well the sand beach last night was great. We rounded the rocky Marble Point to find more sand. In fact, all the way up Chequamegon Point was a long, sandy beach. Having our pick of landings and seeing quite a few deer were the highlights of our day. The straight shoreline grew a bit tiresome but that may have been excentuated by the moderate headwind we encountered all day.
At any rate, we did paddle through the indian reservation (Chequamegon Point) onto Long Island. After fighting the headwind all day, we were in no mood to take on two crossings into Bayfield. We set up camp near LA Point Lighthouse and fell asleep with the sound of fisherman in the channel and the lights of Bayfield in the distance.
Thursday, July 22, 2010
Day 37-July 20, 2010
Paddling out from Black River Harbor was uneventful. The shoreline varied from sand to rock and back to sand. We passed a large group of boyscouts out with a local outfitter.
We stopped for lunch in between rain showers just before we rounded Little Girls Point. There was a campground and day park with plenty of people rock hunting on the cobble beach.
After rounding Little Girls Point the shoreline once again became very rocky and steep. We watched a deer navigate down the steep rock for a drink which made for quite a sight. The steep rocks soon turned into cliffs with no breaks until the Montreal River.
In between rain showers we were able to catch our first glimpses of the Apostle Islands. Even from a distance they were beautiful.
The Montreal River came before we knew it. We unceremoniously crossed into Wisconsin and said our goodbyes to Michigan. Saxon Harbor looked nice and had a campground but we continued on. High sand dunes and beaches stretched all the way to Marble Point and we made good use of the area for camp.
We stopped for lunch in between rain showers just before we rounded Little Girls Point. There was a campground and day park with plenty of people rock hunting on the cobble beach.
After rounding Little Girls Point the shoreline once again became very rocky and steep. We watched a deer navigate down the steep rock for a drink which made for quite a sight. The steep rocks soon turned into cliffs with no breaks until the Montreal River.
In between rain showers we were able to catch our first glimpses of the Apostle Islands. Even from a distance they were beautiful.
The Montreal River came before we knew it. We unceremoniously crossed into Wisconsin and said our goodbyes to Michigan. Saxon Harbor looked nice and had a campground but we continued on. High sand dunes and beaches stretched all the way to Marble Point and we made good use of the area for camp.
Day 36-July 19, 2010
Today: 25.11 mi
Trip: 524.27 mi
After an early morning thunderstorm the north wind began to blow and a fog rolled in. Neither was too terrible, but we still took our time charging up phones and enjoying coffee. We did eventually make it out to the water after chatting with the local trail maintenance crew.
Even though Mom and I have both hiked the Porcupine Mountains, paddling it was a whole other experience. The entire paddle from Union Bay to Big Carp was the most rugged we have seen. Not olny was the shoreline literally vertical rock sheets, but there were also two and sometimes three rock shoals between us and shore. We picked our landinging very carefully and stood in the water holding the kayak rather than touching the shore.
Now we have had our eagle days, fish days, loon days, and deer days but today was the best/worst of them all. Today was bear day. We saw one bear strolling the beach about six miles into our paddle and thought ourselves lucky to finally see one. When we say our second four miles later again patrolling the beach we had other thoughts. Seeing the bear was great but the idea of camping on shore has now changed.
From Big Carp to Presque Isle River cobble beaches came frequently. After Presque Isle though, came long stretches of sand. Just what a fiberglass tandem loves.
We ended our day at the Black River Harbor, my personal favorite for the trip thus far. The harbor was quaint and had a large day park complete with a screened in pavillion with wood and fireplace. We camped on the beach to rest up for another day.
Trip: 524.27 mi
After an early morning thunderstorm the north wind began to blow and a fog rolled in. Neither was too terrible, but we still took our time charging up phones and enjoying coffee. We did eventually make it out to the water after chatting with the local trail maintenance crew.
Even though Mom and I have both hiked the Porcupine Mountains, paddling it was a whole other experience. The entire paddle from Union Bay to Big Carp was the most rugged we have seen. Not olny was the shoreline literally vertical rock sheets, but there were also two and sometimes three rock shoals between us and shore. We picked our landinging very carefully and stood in the water holding the kayak rather than touching the shore.
Now we have had our eagle days, fish days, loon days, and deer days but today was the best/worst of them all. Today was bear day. We saw one bear strolling the beach about six miles into our paddle and thought ourselves lucky to finally see one. When we say our second four miles later again patrolling the beach we had other thoughts. Seeing the bear was great but the idea of camping on shore has now changed.
From Big Carp to Presque Isle River cobble beaches came frequently. After Presque Isle though, came long stretches of sand. Just what a fiberglass tandem loves.
We ended our day at the Black River Harbor, my personal favorite for the trip thus far. The harbor was quaint and had a large day park complete with a screened in pavillion with wood and fireplace. We camped on the beach to rest up for another day.
Day 35-July 18, 2010
Today: 25.3 mi
Trip: 499.16 mi
Sunrise on the Porcupine Mountains was stunning. The early morning clouds were heavy with rain and all was still. Our friends from Escanaba passed us again and we were afloat shortly after. Our raincoats came in handy as it started to rain around 9 am. The paddle into Otonagon was pleasant. There were plenty of sand beaches with just a few areas if rock. We pulled out just before the factory on the north end of the harbor entrance and walked into town.
Syl's diner was on the top of our places to visit. We were soaked to the bone and looking for burgers, fries, and of course, bottomless coffee. Syl's delivered all that and then some. We even took pies and fritters to go for a dinner and breakfast treats. The food tasted so good we hardley even noticed how unusual we must have seemed. We were wet, unshowered, and surrounded by townsfolk dressed in their Sunday's finest.
With full bellies and treats in hand we trekked along. The beaches were heavily populated which made landing difficult. As we passed Silver City the crowds lessened until we hit Union Bay. We decided a hot shower sounded too nice to pass up so we tied our kayak to the dock and camped for the night at the Union Bay State Park.
Trip: 499.16 mi
Sunrise on the Porcupine Mountains was stunning. The early morning clouds were heavy with rain and all was still. Our friends from Escanaba passed us again and we were afloat shortly after. Our raincoats came in handy as it started to rain around 9 am. The paddle into Otonagon was pleasant. There were plenty of sand beaches with just a few areas if rock. We pulled out just before the factory on the north end of the harbor entrance and walked into town.
Syl's diner was on the top of our places to visit. We were soaked to the bone and looking for burgers, fries, and of course, bottomless coffee. Syl's delivered all that and then some. We even took pies and fritters to go for a dinner and breakfast treats. The food tasted so good we hardley even noticed how unusual we must have seemed. We were wet, unshowered, and surrounded by townsfolk dressed in their Sunday's finest.
With full bellies and treats in hand we trekked along. The beaches were heavily populated which made landing difficult. As we passed Silver City the crowds lessened until we hit Union Bay. We decided a hot shower sounded too nice to pass up so we tied our kayak to the dock and camped for the night at the Union Bay State Park.
Wednesday, July 21, 2010
Day 34-July 17, 2010
Today: 18.7 mi
Trip: 473.86 mi
So things this morning looked much better compared to the last two. We learned our lesson in Marquette about taking off too soon after a wave event and decided to take a long breakfast to let the final swells have their time.
As we started to pack up, three solo kayakers rounded the bend and landed in our bay for a quick snack. We chatted for a bit and joked that we would be playing leap frog since we were both bound for Duluth. After they left we finished packing up, ate lunch, and with eager paddles we made our move.
All of the beaches along Misery Bay looked worn away from the pounding waves. We rounded Willard Point, went by Sleeping Bay, and then to Fourteenmile Point where the neatest old lighthouse in desperate need if repair. From there we paddled around Tenmile Point and Bay. We camped on the next sand beach south which yielded a stunning view of the Porcupine Mountains. Not too bad for a half day paddle.
Trip: 473.86 mi
So things this morning looked much better compared to the last two. We learned our lesson in Marquette about taking off too soon after a wave event and decided to take a long breakfast to let the final swells have their time.
As we started to pack up, three solo kayakers rounded the bend and landed in our bay for a quick snack. We chatted for a bit and joked that we would be playing leap frog since we were both bound for Duluth. After they left we finished packing up, ate lunch, and with eager paddles we made our move.
All of the beaches along Misery Bay looked worn away from the pounding waves. We rounded Willard Point, went by Sleeping Bay, and then to Fourteenmile Point where the neatest old lighthouse in desperate need if repair. From there we paddled around Tenmile Point and Bay. We camped on the next sand beach south which yielded a stunning view of the Porcupine Mountains. Not too bad for a half day paddle.
Day 33-July 16, 2010
Today: 0.0 mi
Trip: 455.16 mi
Last night the waves were supposed to lay down to 1-3 ft. I do not think that happened at all! We woke up to a good chunk of the beach missing 25 yrds away on the right and 50 to our left. Also, our boat was hanging over the ledge of sand that once supported it.
At any rate, we started putting sticks in the sand to mark beach loss and moved the kayak to higher ground. Again Mom and I went agate hunting to pass the time. We even went as far as to run into the crashing waves with a bowl and cup to catch the rocks that were being stirred. "Panning for agates" turned out to be less lucrative than planned. We went to sleep early with high hopes of putting in miles tomorrow.
Trip: 455.16 mi
Last night the waves were supposed to lay down to 1-3 ft. I do not think that happened at all! We woke up to a good chunk of the beach missing 25 yrds away on the right and 50 to our left. Also, our boat was hanging over the ledge of sand that once supported it.
At any rate, we started putting sticks in the sand to mark beach loss and moved the kayak to higher ground. Again Mom and I went agate hunting to pass the time. We even went as far as to run into the crashing waves with a bowl and cup to catch the rocks that were being stirred. "Panning for agates" turned out to be less lucrative than planned. We went to sleep early with high hopes of putting in miles tomorrow.
Monday, July 19, 2010
Day 32- July 15, 2010
Today: 0.0 mi
Trip: 455.16 mi
Waking to the sound of crashing waves is never comforting. Add to that frantic treetops and a blowing tent and we had a wind day. Bummer.
After sleeping in and drinking coffee we decided to amuse ourselves by looking for rocks. As we walked the beach, the waves continued to build to the prijected 5-7 ft by lunchtime. After lunch and nap we walked in the other direction looking for cell service. Not being very successful we called it an early, windy night.
Trip: 455.16 mi
Waking to the sound of crashing waves is never comforting. Add to that frantic treetops and a blowing tent and we had a wind day. Bummer.
After sleeping in and drinking coffee we decided to amuse ourselves by looking for rocks. As we walked the beach, the waves continued to build to the prijected 5-7 ft by lunchtime. After lunch and nap we walked in the other direction looking for cell service. Not being very successful we called it an early, windy night.
Day 31- July 14, 2010
Today: 7.39
Trip: 455.16
Our little beach haven was much calmer in the morning when we packed our camp. We knew it would not last long, however. The forcast was for heavy storms to begin as early as 1 pm so we packed up quick and headed out. It was nice to paddle near the sandstone cliffs without the risk of being trashed.
Around the bend came the little town of Freda, another smoke stack, abandoned factory, and a little bit of stamp sand. Our headwinds increased as we passed Freda but it was the clouds of impending doom that convinced us to tuck into a cove on the North end of Rockhouse Point.
Turning on the weather radio, our fears were confirmed. A tornado watch was well in effect along with a special marine statement warning boaters of oncoming storms. It started storming at 1:30 pm and we were trapped in our tent until 9 pm when the weather finally broke. We were able to catch a quick sunset before the next storm rolled in. Let's just say we caught up on some sleep.
Trip: 455.16
Our little beach haven was much calmer in the morning when we packed our camp. We knew it would not last long, however. The forcast was for heavy storms to begin as early as 1 pm so we packed up quick and headed out. It was nice to paddle near the sandstone cliffs without the risk of being trashed.
Around the bend came the little town of Freda, another smoke stack, abandoned factory, and a little bit of stamp sand. Our headwinds increased as we passed Freda but it was the clouds of impending doom that convinced us to tuck into a cove on the North end of Rockhouse Point.
Turning on the weather radio, our fears were confirmed. A tornado watch was well in effect along with a special marine statement warning boaters of oncoming storms. It started storming at 1:30 pm and we were trapped in our tent until 9 pm when the weather finally broke. We were able to catch a quick sunset before the next storm rolled in. Let's just say we caught up on some sleep.
Day 30-July 13, 2010
Today: 23 mi
Trip: 447.77
Sadly our cute cobble beach turned into party central at night. Firecrackers, drinking, and loud music kept us up past 3 am. By the time we were up at 6 am packing, the quiet rock hunters were back reclaiming thief beach.
Heading off we had another fun day of following seas. The shore was a little rocky but had some good sand beaches too. We lunched at the upper entrance to the Portage River and were a little bummed that we too early to see the Ranger returning from Isle Royale.
Paddling along, the shore went from sand to rock and back to sand. It was not long before we could see the smoke stack at Freda and the sandstone cliffs of Redridge. There were some small waterfalls and plenty of sea caves talking to us as the swells slammed into them. No sooner had we passed the stack at redridge did we really begin to feel the effects of the waves. At one point I turned around just in time to see a wave crash on the deck just behind mom. Luckily there was a small sand beach tucked between two points of cliffs and we decided to land for the night. It was strange to see waves building at 5 pm and even stranger that they did not lay down until past 7. I guess Lake Superior gave us too much of a good thing, but at least we got some good miles in.
Trip: 447.77
Sadly our cute cobble beach turned into party central at night. Firecrackers, drinking, and loud music kept us up past 3 am. By the time we were up at 6 am packing, the quiet rock hunters were back reclaiming thief beach.
Heading off we had another fun day of following seas. The shore was a little rocky but had some good sand beaches too. We lunched at the upper entrance to the Portage River and were a little bummed that we too early to see the Ranger returning from Isle Royale.
Paddling along, the shore went from sand to rock and back to sand. It was not long before we could see the smoke stack at Freda and the sandstone cliffs of Redridge. There were some small waterfalls and plenty of sea caves talking to us as the swells slammed into them. No sooner had we passed the stack at redridge did we really begin to feel the effects of the waves. At one point I turned around just in time to see a wave crash on the deck just behind mom. Luckily there was a small sand beach tucked between two points of cliffs and we decided to land for the night. It was strange to see waves building at 5 pm and even stranger that they did not lay down until past 7. I guess Lake Superior gave us too much of a good thing, but at least we got some good miles in.
Sunday, July 18, 2010
Day 29-July 12, 2010
Today: 32.2 mi
Trip: 424.77
We had a slight audience of motel guests and passengers on the Isle Royale Queen when packing up this morning. We bid farewell to Copper Harbor and continued our journey down the Keweenaw. The shore was very rocky but had a row of emerging rocks just offshore so we were pretty protected in our corridor. There were many more houses than expected which made breaks more difficult but things were going well.
I had my trusty Keweenaw Water Trail map on my deck but grew suprisingly aware of the inacuracy it contained. I will hit the highlights but spare the details of my frustrating day with the map. Let's just be happy that at least Keweenaw was spelled correctly.
We passed a place called Devil's Washtub and a rock arch. I would love to describe them both to you, but alas the water trail map failed to tell us where these features might be. We were in the area at least.
Lunch at Eagle Harbor was a treat. We had small following seas which just pushed us into the harbor past a beautiful lighthouse (not on the water trail map) onto a long sandy beach. Afterwards we came on to Great Sand Bay (sandy shore) and then to Eagle River.
From this point on we tried to use the water trail map to find other useless information like a campground. We never found one and the other had a steep rock bank instead of the described sandy shore. We continued on past steep cobble beaches until we came to Gratiot River. There a less steep cobble beach greated us. We put up camp amongst a few families hunting rocks and a couple ORV's.
Trip: 424.77
We had a slight audience of motel guests and passengers on the Isle Royale Queen when packing up this morning. We bid farewell to Copper Harbor and continued our journey down the Keweenaw. The shore was very rocky but had a row of emerging rocks just offshore so we were pretty protected in our corridor. There were many more houses than expected which made breaks more difficult but things were going well.
I had my trusty Keweenaw Water Trail map on my deck but grew suprisingly aware of the inacuracy it contained. I will hit the highlights but spare the details of my frustrating day with the map. Let's just be happy that at least Keweenaw was spelled correctly.
We passed a place called Devil's Washtub and a rock arch. I would love to describe them both to you, but alas the water trail map failed to tell us where these features might be. We were in the area at least.
Lunch at Eagle Harbor was a treat. We had small following seas which just pushed us into the harbor past a beautiful lighthouse (not on the water trail map) onto a long sandy beach. Afterwards we came on to Great Sand Bay (sandy shore) and then to Eagle River.
From this point on we tried to use the water trail map to find other useless information like a campground. We never found one and the other had a steep rock bank instead of the described sandy shore. We continued on past steep cobble beaches until we came to Gratiot River. There a less steep cobble beach greated us. We put up camp amongst a few families hunting rocks and a couple ORV's.
Saturday, July 17, 2010
Day 28-July 11, 2010
Today: 0.0 mi
Trip: 392.57
Charming as Copper Harbor is, it was the rain, thunder and lightning that once again told us to take a day off. We rolled out of our cool hotel room down to The Pines for a breakfast that couldn't be beat, bottomless coffee and, oddly enough, Internet.
From there we took the long way home through local shops and attractions. Most of the rest if the day was spent on laundry and movies. The Mariner was our choice location for both lunch and dinner. All in all it was an unproductive, restful day. Just what we needed.
Trip: 392.57
Charming as Copper Harbor is, it was the rain, thunder and lightning that once again told us to take a day off. We rolled out of our cool hotel room down to The Pines for a breakfast that couldn't be beat, bottomless coffee and, oddly enough, Internet.
From there we took the long way home through local shops and attractions. Most of the rest if the day was spent on laundry and movies. The Mariner was our choice location for both lunch and dinner. All in all it was an unproductive, restful day. Just what we needed.
Sunday, July 11, 2010
Day 27-July 10, 2010
Waking up at the tip of the Keweenaw was spectacular to say the least. Lazily we broke camp and searched for agates. Winds were calm as we launched and we were planning a short paddle to Copper Harbor for a shower. We passed an old rocket launch site for NASA. It was back in the woods and not too stunning but interesting indeed. The shoreline transitioned to more rock and slightly less cobble beach bailouts as we made the turn westward. Our freighter friends are back and we should be seeing them all the way into Duluth.
Our ongoing joke is not if, but when we will encounter our daily headwind. Today it happened just 5 miles from our destination. Waves kicked up to 3 rooters in less than 30 min with sustained winds at 15 with gusts to 20. Let's just say that we had to work a bit to get to Copper Harbor. A warm shower, coffee, and homemade pie from The Pines was the best reward. We returned later for a brat and beer to complete our day and spent the night watching movies. We were able to visit Keweenaw Adventure Co. To get our watertrail maps. We also splurged on a rock book to better identify and seek out those rare agates. Rock junkies, that is what we have become.
Our ongoing joke is not if, but when we will encounter our daily headwind. Today it happened just 5 miles from our destination. Waves kicked up to 3 rooters in less than 30 min with sustained winds at 15 with gusts to 20. Let's just say that we had to work a bit to get to Copper Harbor. A warm shower, coffee, and homemade pie from The Pines was the best reward. We returned later for a brat and beer to complete our day and spent the night watching movies. We were able to visit Keweenaw Adventure Co. To get our watertrail maps. We also splurged on a rock book to better identify and seek out those rare agates. Rock junkies, that is what we have become.
Saturday, July 10, 2010
Day 26-July 9, 2010
Today we round the Keweenaw...or not. We started out with a significant tailwind that was greatly appreciated. We made it to the Montreal River Falls in no time. While I had it in my head that we would be following a coastline similar to that on Isle Royale, that was not the case. There were many small and some not so small cobblestone beaches tucked into the rocky shore. We stopped to play in the falls but continued on nonetheless.
Imagine my suprise when we found a large sand beach after Keystone Point. It was here we had lunch before rounding Keweenaw Point. We were expecting to encounter a headwind as we rounded the point so making the turn was bittersweet.
With Manitou Island on our right, an agate beach on our left and 11 miles of whitecap headwind ahead, we made the tough call. Camping at the tip of the Keweenaw was rough but someone has to do it. We even found a few agates along the way. Perhaps tomorrow we will make it to Copper Harbor.
Imagine my suprise when we found a large sand beach after Keystone Point. It was here we had lunch before rounding Keweenaw Point. We were expecting to encounter a headwind as we rounded the point so making the turn was bittersweet.
With Manitou Island on our right, an agate beach on our left and 11 miles of whitecap headwind ahead, we made the tough call. Camping at the tip of the Keweenaw was rough but someone has to do it. We even found a few agates along the way. Perhaps tomorrow we will make it to Copper Harbor.
Day 25-July 8, 2010
Let me just state the obvious here. Black sand gets very hot in the sun. We packed up our soaking wet gear not a moment too soon. We were pulling out just as the sun started cooking our beach home.
We passed an old factory stack in Gay and the black sand gave way to modest cliffs interspersed with sandy beaches. We stopped at this quaint little roadside park for lunch. It was after eating we noticed the name...Brunette Park. How Mom was allowed to stay I do not know.
The paddle into Bete de Gris Bay was peacefull. There were many carp in the shallows and a lazy scenic byway along the shore. Once we rounded Point Isabelle we had yet another headwind. No bother.
There was a beautiful sand beach all along the bottom of the bay framed in the mountains of the Keweenaw. We ended up camping on the beach which was the quietest place we have been thus far. I am certain tonight will be great for sleeping.
We passed an old factory stack in Gay and the black sand gave way to modest cliffs interspersed with sandy beaches. We stopped at this quaint little roadside park for lunch. It was after eating we noticed the name...Brunette Park. How Mom was allowed to stay I do not know.
The paddle into Bete de Gris Bay was peacefull. There were many carp in the shallows and a lazy scenic byway along the shore. Once we rounded Point Isabelle we had yet another headwind. No bother.
There was a beautiful sand beach all along the bottom of the bay framed in the mountains of the Keweenaw. We ended up camping on the beach which was the quietest place we have been thus far. I am certain tonight will be great for sleeping.
Day 24-July 7, 2010
It was a beautiful morning. The sun was shining, the winds were calm and the neighbor's dog came by to play. After an ambitious game of fetch we ventured onto the water and continued our trek up the Keweenaw. All day we were in the presence of regal sandstone cliffs that were only broken by a few quaint little beaches. I made a particularly fantastic find while running up the beach for a pit stop...an enormous white agate. My first official one and the largest in our collection.
As is the case in Lake Superior, the winds changed and we found ouselves in a headwind coming into Grand Traverse Bay. We were more shocked to find inside this bay a most peculiar scene. South if the harbor breakwall, the sand was yellow and full of people as is expected. The north end, however, was pure black sand with sharply steep banks. This sand extended well north of the bay around to Gay. As we rounded this point, storms were well on their way and we needed to land. We were able to pick out a relatively flat bank to run the boat up on. The nearest treeline was a good quarter mile away so we made due with pitching out tent between large dunes if black sand. As we ate our dinner we watched bolts of lightning in the distance. It started to rain as we retreated inside our tent for the night.
As is the case in Lake Superior, the winds changed and we found ouselves in a headwind coming into Grand Traverse Bay. We were more shocked to find inside this bay a most peculiar scene. South if the harbor breakwall, the sand was yellow and full of people as is expected. The north end, however, was pure black sand with sharply steep banks. This sand extended well north of the bay around to Gay. As we rounded this point, storms were well on their way and we needed to land. We were able to pick out a relatively flat bank to run the boat up on. The nearest treeline was a good quarter mile away so we made due with pitching out tent between large dunes if black sand. As we ate our dinner we watched bolts of lightning in the distance. It started to rain as we retreated inside our tent for the night.
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
Tuesday, July 6, 2010
Day 23-July 6, 2010
At 6 this morning the rain was coming down pretty good. Mom peeked her head out. With the low rain clouds and the heavy fog it was pretty much pea soup. If course we got up and onto the water...after we rolled back into our sleeping bags for another hour or so. It took a lot of coffee and chocolate but we eventually packed up and headed into Baraga for our mail drop. The walk was not terribly far but it was not insignificant either. After carting our next few weeks of food back to the kayak we had worked up a bit of an appetite. The Ojibwa BP had pop, chips, and dollar cheeseburgers. It was a lunch fit for queens.
All of our new food did fit in the boat and we did start our trek up the beautiful Keweenaw Peninsula. Copper Country through and through. We paddled along stunning black sand beaches and towering salmon colored sandstone cliffs. Lake Superior was playing nice and we were able to hammer out 16.5 miles even with our late start. We set up camp on a beach just north of the Portage River lower entry near the town of Jacobsville. According to the locals, the salmon colored Jacobsville Sandstone has benn used in many building around the country. Many of the local churches, prominant buildings in Ohio and New York all showcase this local treasure...who knew?
All of our new food did fit in the boat and we did start our trek up the beautiful Keweenaw Peninsula. Copper Country through and through. We paddled along stunning black sand beaches and towering salmon colored sandstone cliffs. Lake Superior was playing nice and we were able to hammer out 16.5 miles even with our late start. We set up camp on a beach just north of the Portage River lower entry near the town of Jacobsville. According to the locals, the salmon colored Jacobsville Sandstone has benn used in many building around the country. Many of the local churches, prominant buildings in Ohio and New York all showcase this local treasure...who knew?
Monday, July 5, 2010
Day 22-July 5, 2010
Sleeping in for a second day in a row was a treat. Again we ventured to The Hilltop for an unbeatable breakfast. We then packed up and headed back to 2nd Sand Beach to start again in our kayak. Around noon we bid Mike, Peggy, and her husband Mark farewell and made our way out on the calm waters of Superior.
Mom and I were very warm seeing as how it was a breezeless afternoon. We stopped for a while to look at the old Ford town of Pequaming and paddle south toward Baraga. Suddenly we stared feeling random ice cold winds gusts in shirt bursts almost as if walking in front of an open freezer. It was nice shock when the fog started rolling in.
Coming into L'anse we decided to make the 2 mike crossing into Baraga. Just about the time we were halfway across, the fog rolled in a little heavier so we lost the shore in both directions. Occasionally we could still see the emerging highlands in the distance above the fog. Did I mention it was a terribly cold fog? So cold in fact that my hands and ears were icicles by the time we were through.
When we did reach the shores of Baraga, the skies were sunny and temperature warm. It did not last long though. Steady heavy rain has now set in at the Ojibwa RV Park where we call home.
At least today we have reached yet another milestone...the 300 mile mark!! Yee haw!! Tomorrow, we shall make our way up the keweenaw.
Mom and I were very warm seeing as how it was a breezeless afternoon. We stopped for a while to look at the old Ford town of Pequaming and paddle south toward Baraga. Suddenly we stared feeling random ice cold winds gusts in shirt bursts almost as if walking in front of an open freezer. It was nice shock when the fog started rolling in.
Coming into L'anse we decided to make the 2 mike crossing into Baraga. Just about the time we were halfway across, the fog rolled in a little heavier so we lost the shore in both directions. Occasionally we could still see the emerging highlands in the distance above the fog. Did I mention it was a terribly cold fog? So cold in fact that my hands and ears were icicles by the time we were through.
When we did reach the shores of Baraga, the skies were sunny and temperature warm. It did not last long though. Steady heavy rain has now set in at the Ojibwa RV Park where we call home.
At least today we have reached yet another milestone...the 300 mile mark!! Yee haw!! Tomorrow, we shall make our way up the keweenaw.
Day 21-July 4, 2010
Happy fourth of July!!!
The winds were cranking again and there was rain in the air. While most folks were busy trying to get outside, we were quite content sleeping in and staying in the hotel another night. We did venture out to eat once in a while...The Hilltop with their famous sweet rolls and bittomless was too hard to pass up. We also did laundry and I watched a few movies. All in all not much paddling to be had but plenty of rest and relaxation.
Staying awake long enough to view the fireworks was not on our agenda but I did wake up when I heard the grand finale.
The winds were cranking again and there was rain in the air. While most folks were busy trying to get outside, we were quite content sleeping in and staying in the hotel another night. We did venture out to eat once in a while...The Hilltop with their famous sweet rolls and bittomless was too hard to pass up. We also did laundry and I watched a few movies. All in all not much paddling to be had but plenty of rest and relaxation.
Staying awake long enough to view the fireworks was not on our agenda but I did wake up when I heard the grand finale.
Day 20-July 3, 2010
As the case may be, the flies that we left on the outside of the tent were eagerly awaiting our return. We packed up camp in record time, passed on the morning coffee and hit the water. The weather called for a 15-25 mph headwind and we didn't expect to go far. The shore was lined with small rocks cliffs making break points few and fat between. Paddling around cliffs for as many days as we have this far, I tend to forget the looming potential for things to fall. Imagine my surprise when I actually witnessed a tree fall in from a 15 foot cliff some 100 yrds ahead of me. It was unnerving to say the least.
So we continued to fight the wind for a long 12 miles. The gusts were so powerful the kayak practically moved in reverse. Tired and hungry we hit the north beach that connects Pequaming to the mainland. It didn't take much to figure out that we were going to treat ourselves to a hotel in nearby L'anse for the night. Mike would come pick us up while a nice landowner named Peggy agreed to let us keep the boat on her beach.
Mom and I both enjoyed our showers and a full belly from a local bar. Sleeping in a real bed was very nice too. I think tonight I am going to watch a movie...a luxury long time coming.
So we continued to fight the wind for a long 12 miles. The gusts were so powerful the kayak practically moved in reverse. Tired and hungry we hit the north beach that connects Pequaming to the mainland. It didn't take much to figure out that we were going to treat ourselves to a hotel in nearby L'anse for the night. Mike would come pick us up while a nice landowner named Peggy agreed to let us keep the boat on her beach.
Mom and I both enjoyed our showers and a full belly from a local bar. Sleeping in a real bed was very nice too. I think tonight I am going to watch a movie...a luxury long time coming.
Day 19-July 2, 2010
The seemingly sleepy little town of Big Bay was nothing if not creepy. While by day it seemed desserted (we only saw 4 people while walking around) things definately changed by night (vampires perhaps?). Our night was filled with screeching tires, four wheelers, incesant screaming and fireworks. Mom and I both were awake just waiting to be discovered. Fortunately we were left alone and the mayhem died down just before dawn. From the solitude we were then able to hear the coyotes in the nearby woods. As we packed up and paddled away the town was once again as still as the morning water upon which we paddled.
Rounding the point out of Big Bay were in the shadow of beautiful rock cliffs. They soon gave way to a long stretch of sand beach framed by the Huron Mountains. Our morning coffee demanded a quick pit stop. We saw the most peculiar deer dancing around the beach. It was not until we landed did we realize why. Apparently July 2 was national stable fly hatch out day (sadly this holiday did not make it on my calendar). From that beach on we were in constant battle with the flies. They covered the backs of our lifejackets and made stopping for breaks a bear. We met two other kayakers who were in the same plight and we did not feel quite so singled out.
Paddling along the Huron Mountain Club property we were shocked to see people however not so when they did not exchange hellos. The cabins along the shore were historic mansions in their own right. The dated architecture was apparent and often stood apart from the newer renovations. Of course there were modern mansions as well which looked out of place as only they can do.
After 20 miles it so we were out of the Huron Mountain Club and back to civilization. The upcoming holiday weekend brought many people to the beaches of the Huron River. We continued on into Abbaye Bay and made the 2 mile crossing to Abbaye Peninsula. We rounded the point into the Keweenae Bay and made camp on the shore. Our day total was just over 30 miles and we were a touch tired.
Breaking camp proved to be more difficult than we intended. Apparently throughout the day the flies were busy hatching. I am not joking when I say that at any given moment we each had at least 50 flies on us. Groups were falling off of us in ping pong ball sized clumps. We struggled to eat our dinner without injesting flies or suffering a nasty bite. We quickly finished our chores and retreated to the tent. From there an event dubbed "the July 2nd fly massacre" started. Fly carnage was everywhere but a small price to pay for a moment of solitude. We were not brave enough to venture out for the sunset...I am sure it was beautiful.
Rounding the point out of Big Bay were in the shadow of beautiful rock cliffs. They soon gave way to a long stretch of sand beach framed by the Huron Mountains. Our morning coffee demanded a quick pit stop. We saw the most peculiar deer dancing around the beach. It was not until we landed did we realize why. Apparently July 2 was national stable fly hatch out day (sadly this holiday did not make it on my calendar). From that beach on we were in constant battle with the flies. They covered the backs of our lifejackets and made stopping for breaks a bear. We met two other kayakers who were in the same plight and we did not feel quite so singled out.
Paddling along the Huron Mountain Club property we were shocked to see people however not so when they did not exchange hellos. The cabins along the shore were historic mansions in their own right. The dated architecture was apparent and often stood apart from the newer renovations. Of course there were modern mansions as well which looked out of place as only they can do.
After 20 miles it so we were out of the Huron Mountain Club and back to civilization. The upcoming holiday weekend brought many people to the beaches of the Huron River. We continued on into Abbaye Bay and made the 2 mile crossing to Abbaye Peninsula. We rounded the point into the Keweenae Bay and made camp on the shore. Our day total was just over 30 miles and we were a touch tired.
Breaking camp proved to be more difficult than we intended. Apparently throughout the day the flies were busy hatching. I am not joking when I say that at any given moment we each had at least 50 flies on us. Groups were falling off of us in ping pong ball sized clumps. We struggled to eat our dinner without injesting flies or suffering a nasty bite. We quickly finished our chores and retreated to the tent. From there an event dubbed "the July 2nd fly massacre" started. Fly carnage was everywhere but a small price to pay for a moment of solitude. We were not brave enough to venture out for the sunset...I am sure it was beautiful.
Thursday, July 1, 2010
Day 18- July 1, 2010
Happy July!!! I cannot belive it is here already. The weather called for sunny and favorable south winds. We made it around Little Presque Isle early this morning and continued our trek north. Of course you can see from the pics that we did have a little fun before take-off. Having nighttime temps in the high 30s will do that to people. Soon enough we rounded Thoneys Point and came upon a huge mansion at the tip of Garlic Point. Next we passed Saux Head Point and Granite Point. We stopped for lunch somewhere between Granite Point and Yellow Dog Point. While having lunch, the skies began to cloud over and started to look like rain. Being good paddlers we listened to the forcast again only this time they started calling for. A slight chance of rain in the extreme western upper Michigan. Still good.
Coming around Yellow Dog Point, we began to take note of a developing rain storm a few miles out. It was definately going to miss us but the clouds were amazing. Then I noticed some white caps...then a few more, and a few more. We braced as the wind picked up from behind us and created small steep one footers pushed us toward the steep cliffs ahead. Just about the time we were thinking we better hit the sand beach to our south...the wind and waves disappeared as quickly as they came.
Being as how we were close to Big Bay and it was still early, we paddled along. Coming around Big Bay Lighthouse, we could again see rain forming over the bay. This time we tucked in near the marina with intentions to leave once it let up. Well, one little rain shower led to another which led to another. Looking at the map we would have to trek at least 13 miles before being able to land. The Huron Mountain Club owned much of the shoreline and do not respond well to visitors. Since we had already put in 23.6 miles and it was coming on 4 pm we decided to set up shop here.
We set up our tent on the beach, ate with the sound of pitter patter of raindrops.
As the case may be, we are glad that we can rely on the forcast...right. Lake Superior makes her own weather. Perhaps she will play even nicer tomorrow.
Coming around Yellow Dog Point, we began to take note of a developing rain storm a few miles out. It was definately going to miss us but the clouds were amazing. Then I noticed some white caps...then a few more, and a few more. We braced as the wind picked up from behind us and created small steep one footers pushed us toward the steep cliffs ahead. Just about the time we were thinking we better hit the sand beach to our south...the wind and waves disappeared as quickly as they came.
Being as how we were close to Big Bay and it was still early, we paddled along. Coming around Big Bay Lighthouse, we could again see rain forming over the bay. This time we tucked in near the marina with intentions to leave once it let up. Well, one little rain shower led to another which led to another. Looking at the map we would have to trek at least 13 miles before being able to land. The Huron Mountain Club owned much of the shoreline and do not respond well to visitors. Since we had already put in 23.6 miles and it was coming on 4 pm we decided to set up shop here.
We set up our tent on the beach, ate with the sound of pitter patter of raindrops.
As the case may be, we are glad that we can rely on the forcast...right. Lake Superior makes her own weather. Perhaps she will play even nicer tomorrow.
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