Our motto for this trip has always been that as soon as things stop being fun, we will stop paddling. Following this last encounter of almost running out of food and spending most of August watching the water instead of paddling has pushed this trip into the no fun realm. We came on this trip to live on Lake Superior and we did. Mom's dream was to see the entire shore of the lake and it just so happens she has seen the remainder of the shore in previous years. That being said, we have decided to end our trip here in Nipigon. The weather is changing very rapidly and sooner than expected. Even the locals are surprised at the winds this season. September could be calm, but it could be worse...hard to say. All we know is that the most isolated part of the shore is yet to come and getting off the lake on our own accord now is much better than being rescued later for any number of reasons. We have seen the many sides of Lake Superior and have been more than happy to have the pleasure to live on her for 75 days.
Mom is going to come back and finish...perhaps even add to this blog to complete the journey. I am off to wherever the wind blows. Virginia first, and then Vermont for my dog, jeep, and kayak. I know I have caught the expedition bug and will be eagerly awaiting my next adventure...wherever it may be.
I would like to thank everybody who has been supporting us along the way (even you readers at home!!). Should you have any questions, comments, or just want to keep in touch, I encourage you to email me: ndromany@gmail.com. Keep your eyes on the SPOT page, I will be adding pictures as soon as I get them onto my computer at home.
Thanks again and I hope to see you on the water someday!!!
Andrea and Brenda
Saturday, August 28, 2010
Day 74- August 26, 2010
Today: 9.79 mi
Trip: 996.19 mi
At 4 AM we woke up to listen to the radio. Our little window of opportunity was closing. The south winds were now predicted to arrive by noon...not good. Mom and I got up and started to evaluatee our options. We narrowed them down to two. The first would be to run for Rossport in the dark and hope to not get caught in the subsiding north wind or building south winds while crossing one of three channels. Our second was to head back toward Bowman Island where there is a fishing camp and hope to catch a ride to the mainland for supplies.
After much debating we agreed better to play it safe then risk being wind bound on another island with no food. We headed back.
Just as soon as we rounded the corner back behind Armour Island we were stopped by a small motor boat. Russ and Sharon greeted us kindly and asked where we were heading. We told them and they invited us to their camp to have coffee. We could even have a ride back to the mainland if we needed. We went in to see their camp. Apparently we had landed in the Embassy of Nirivia. We were presented with articles describing Nirivia and this little piece of paradise. Russ even radioed down to the fish camp to see if they could give us a ride into Nipigon. Gary Lange operator of the camp said he could and after a wonderful breakfast we said farewell to our new friends Russ, Sharon, and William.
Feeling better about our decision to go back we paddled on. We were serenaded by loons and even saw a bear walking the shore. The south winds started to pick up before noon and we were very certain we had made the right decision.
Soon we were at Bowman Island Charters and we breathed a long sigh of relief. Gary Lange welcomed us to his camp. There was a great sand beach for the kayak, a beautiful lodge, cabins, and of course a sauna. We had read about Bowman Island Carters in Bonnie Dahls marina book and knew he ran fishing charters. Apparently he also shuttles kayaks from the Nipigon to Bowman Island and back. How fortunate for us. So we spent the night in the lodge, had a wonderful full dinner of burgers and salad. Tomorrow we shall head to Nipigon, the only freshwater port north of the 49th parallel. Even since the start of this trip, I have wanted to see the northermost point of Lake Superior. I guess I never expected to see it under these circumstances but then again, things just tend to work themselves out.
Trip: 996.19 mi
At 4 AM we woke up to listen to the radio. Our little window of opportunity was closing. The south winds were now predicted to arrive by noon...not good. Mom and I got up and started to evaluatee our options. We narrowed them down to two. The first would be to run for Rossport in the dark and hope to not get caught in the subsiding north wind or building south winds while crossing one of three channels. Our second was to head back toward Bowman Island where there is a fishing camp and hope to catch a ride to the mainland for supplies.
After much debating we agreed better to play it safe then risk being wind bound on another island with no food. We headed back.
Just as soon as we rounded the corner back behind Armour Island we were stopped by a small motor boat. Russ and Sharon greeted us kindly and asked where we were heading. We told them and they invited us to their camp to have coffee. We could even have a ride back to the mainland if we needed. We went in to see their camp. Apparently we had landed in the Embassy of Nirivia. We were presented with articles describing Nirivia and this little piece of paradise. Russ even radioed down to the fish camp to see if they could give us a ride into Nipigon. Gary Lange operator of the camp said he could and after a wonderful breakfast we said farewell to our new friends Russ, Sharon, and William.
Feeling better about our decision to go back we paddled on. We were serenaded by loons and even saw a bear walking the shore. The south winds started to pick up before noon and we were very certain we had made the right decision.
Soon we were at Bowman Island Charters and we breathed a long sigh of relief. Gary Lange welcomed us to his camp. There was a great sand beach for the kayak, a beautiful lodge, cabins, and of course a sauna. We had read about Bowman Island Carters in Bonnie Dahls marina book and knew he ran fishing charters. Apparently he also shuttles kayaks from the Nipigon to Bowman Island and back. How fortunate for us. So we spent the night in the lodge, had a wonderful full dinner of burgers and salad. Tomorrow we shall head to Nipigon, the only freshwater port north of the 49th parallel. Even since the start of this trip, I have wanted to see the northermost point of Lake Superior. I guess I never expected to see it under these circumstances but then again, things just tend to work themselves out.
Day 73- August 25, 2010
Today: 0.0 mi
Trip: 986.40 mi
No surprise here. Wind bound yet again.
The winds did start clocking out of the north. We are hoping they die down enough to let us make it the 18 miles into Rossport. Winds are supposed to be light at midnight and then pick up to south 15 knots late in the day. After the winds start blowing from the south, they will continue through Monday!! We are hoping to wake up early and make a run for Rossport. We have two dinners left (we split one each evening now) so too many more wind days and we are going to be in trouble.
We ate dinner away from our camp again and this time we were visited by a bear. It was across the harbor and did not notice us one bit. We watched for a while and wondered what would happen if we ate dinner here again....what new visitor would be waiting?
Trip: 986.40 mi
No surprise here. Wind bound yet again.
The winds did start clocking out of the north. We are hoping they die down enough to let us make it the 18 miles into Rossport. Winds are supposed to be light at midnight and then pick up to south 15 knots late in the day. After the winds start blowing from the south, they will continue through Monday!! We are hoping to wake up early and make a run for Rossport. We have two dinners left (we split one each evening now) so too many more wind days and we are going to be in trouble.
We ate dinner away from our camp again and this time we were visited by a bear. It was across the harbor and did not notice us one bit. We watched for a while and wondered what would happen if we ate dinner here again....what new visitor would be waiting?
Day 72- August 24, 2010
Today: 0.0 mi
Trip: 986.40 mi
Wind bound again...great. Winds out of the southwest 23 knots and 2 meter waves.
We spent the day going stir crazy. We did not want to hike around too much for fear that we would burn too many calories. We ate very little to conserve our supply and just watched the waves crash into the shore.
Trip: 986.40 mi
Wind bound again...great. Winds out of the southwest 23 knots and 2 meter waves.
We spent the day going stir crazy. We did not want to hike around too much for fear that we would burn too many calories. We ate very little to conserve our supply and just watched the waves crash into the shore.
Day 71- August 23, 2010
Today: 7.33 mi
Trip: 986.40 mi
On the water at 7 this morning. Forecast is calling for a blow and we wanted to cross onto Simpson Island before things picked up too much. We took a stiff headwind heading around Frasier Point and behind Hope and Armour Islands. We came out to McNab Harbour and decided to stop. Things were picking up quicker than we wanted and at least here we had a view of open water.
It was only 10 AM so we rationed out food and made a plan for the next few days. By noon the waves were pushing 4 ft. The fog soon rolled in and we felt pretty isolated. A couple of jetskies came flying by. Watching them jump the waves was quite the entertainment although I have to say that the landings looked less than comfortable.
We walked over some rocks to look at the interior of the harbor while eating dinner. As it was cooking we were visited by a moose!!! Our first of the trip and it was quite the treat. We watched as a cow on her two little ones waded and then swam down the harbor. They never even looked our way and we just watched in awe as they wandered on their way.
Trip: 986.40 mi
On the water at 7 this morning. Forecast is calling for a blow and we wanted to cross onto Simpson Island before things picked up too much. We took a stiff headwind heading around Frasier Point and behind Hope and Armour Islands. We came out to McNab Harbour and decided to stop. Things were picking up quicker than we wanted and at least here we had a view of open water.
It was only 10 AM so we rationed out food and made a plan for the next few days. By noon the waves were pushing 4 ft. The fog soon rolled in and we felt pretty isolated. A couple of jetskies came flying by. Watching them jump the waves was quite the entertainment although I have to say that the landings looked less than comfortable.
We walked over some rocks to look at the interior of the harbor while eating dinner. As it was cooking we were visited by a moose!!! Our first of the trip and it was quite the treat. We watched as a cow on her two little ones waded and then swam down the harbor. They never even looked our way and we just watched in awe as they wandered on their way.
Day 70- August 22, 2010
Today: 22.46 mi
Trip: 979.07 mi
It was great to actually paddle on this paddling trip! We hit the water relatively early and rounded a much calmer Sail Rock and Agate Point. We ducked behind Spar Island and then barely touched Moss Island before crossing over to Flour Island.
Once inside Flour Island we again found ourselves in a network of islands too large to explore in one day. We did poke around a little and had lunch on a very scenic beach. Then we crossed over to St. Ignace Island and headed for the CPR slip. We did not stay long, just enough time to have a coffee and continue on. The forecast is calling for another bout of wind and we need to get to Terrace Bay for our next food drop. Taking inventory we had five dinners total, nine packs of tuna, half a jar of peanut butter, cheese sticks, and protein drink. Today was our last day of normal food rations...time to conserve.
We went between Bowman Island and St. Ignace island and found a few 'camps' along the way. As we rounded the next point the water became very very shallow. We held our breath and thought airy thoughts but alas we struck bottom. For the first time this trip we had to walk our kayak to deeper water. We must be loosing our touch. After a good laugh we found a great spot to camp near Pope Point.
Trip: 979.07 mi
It was great to actually paddle on this paddling trip! We hit the water relatively early and rounded a much calmer Sail Rock and Agate Point. We ducked behind Spar Island and then barely touched Moss Island before crossing over to Flour Island.
Once inside Flour Island we again found ourselves in a network of islands too large to explore in one day. We did poke around a little and had lunch on a very scenic beach. Then we crossed over to St. Ignace Island and headed for the CPR slip. We did not stay long, just enough time to have a coffee and continue on. The forecast is calling for another bout of wind and we need to get to Terrace Bay for our next food drop. Taking inventory we had five dinners total, nine packs of tuna, half a jar of peanut butter, cheese sticks, and protein drink. Today was our last day of normal food rations...time to conserve.
We went between Bowman Island and St. Ignace island and found a few 'camps' along the way. As we rounded the next point the water became very very shallow. We held our breath and thought airy thoughts but alas we struck bottom. For the first time this trip we had to walk our kayak to deeper water. We must be loosing our touch. After a good laugh we found a great spot to camp near Pope Point.
Day 69- August 21, 2010
Toady: 0.0 mi
Trip: 956.61 mi
Oh the crazy things we do! This morning the weather sounded pleasant and from the look of the water in our harbour, it looked like a go. We packed up and felt awful excited about heading out...that was until we made it half a mile. We were just getting to round Sail Rock. The swells were around four feet and were lazily picking the kayaking up and down.
We rounded the corner. As soon as the words "oh dear" hit my mouth I knew we were not going any farther. Those nice little four foot swells were amplified on every shoal from Sail Rock to Agate Point. Paddling farther out we saw the swells hit the shoals, stand up well over my head and then dump. The swells were far enough apart that it was hard to tell where each shoal was definitively and we decided better not to make a mistake and get trashed. We paddled back to shore to re-evaluate.
I was rearing to see the waves better and convinced Mom to bushwhack to the end of the point to have a better look. Going out we made our own path which involved much crawling and sliding. Making it to the other side was worth it though. We spent most of the morning looking, evaluating, and taking pictures. Finding our way for lunch was much nicer with the animal trail we found. It must have been something small because we found ourselves crawling even more. After lunch we were going to try to head out again, but then fog rolled in making it even harder to see where the waves were popping. Defeated we just called it a day and set up camp. Still no moose.
Trip: 956.61 mi
Oh the crazy things we do! This morning the weather sounded pleasant and from the look of the water in our harbour, it looked like a go. We packed up and felt awful excited about heading out...that was until we made it half a mile. We were just getting to round Sail Rock. The swells were around four feet and were lazily picking the kayaking up and down.
We rounded the corner. As soon as the words "oh dear" hit my mouth I knew we were not going any farther. Those nice little four foot swells were amplified on every shoal from Sail Rock to Agate Point. Paddling farther out we saw the swells hit the shoals, stand up well over my head and then dump. The swells were far enough apart that it was hard to tell where each shoal was definitively and we decided better not to make a mistake and get trashed. We paddled back to shore to re-evaluate.
I was rearing to see the waves better and convinced Mom to bushwhack to the end of the point to have a better look. Going out we made our own path which involved much crawling and sliding. Making it to the other side was worth it though. We spent most of the morning looking, evaluating, and taking pictures. Finding our way for lunch was much nicer with the animal trail we found. It must have been something small because we found ourselves crawling even more. After lunch we were going to try to head out again, but then fog rolled in making it even harder to see where the waves were popping. Defeated we just called it a day and set up camp. Still no moose.
Day 68- August 20, 2010
Today: 0.0 mi
Trip: 956.61 mi
Wind day... bummer. It seems we had just gotten back into the swing of thing when along comes a stiff southeast wind, 2 meter waves, and storms. We did poke our heads out of the tent to see if we could at least make a run for Agate Harbour, but the clouds of impending doom, lighting, and thunder drove us back to the tent. Coffee in the rain is always a joy.
The storm did pass and we took a quick hike around to see if there was anything worth noting. Rain drove us back into the tent at noon and it poured until 8 PM. We made a career out of playing solitaire and napping today. Maybe tomorrow will be better.
Trip: 956.61 mi
Wind day... bummer. It seems we had just gotten back into the swing of thing when along comes a stiff southeast wind, 2 meter waves, and storms. We did poke our heads out of the tent to see if we could at least make a run for Agate Harbour, but the clouds of impending doom, lighting, and thunder drove us back to the tent. Coffee in the rain is always a joy.
The storm did pass and we took a quick hike around to see if there was anything worth noting. Rain drove us back into the tent at noon and it poured until 8 PM. We made a career out of playing solitaire and napping today. Maybe tomorrow will be better.
Day 67- August 19, 2010
Today: 23.06 mi
Trip: 956.61 mi
Today was a great day for island hopping. We first crossed over to Magnet Point (with little magnetic disturbance which was a bit disappointing). From there we wandered in and out of the many islands in the bays. Lake Superior was in a great mood with her placid water.
Feeling daring we went through the Barklay Islands and then wandered over to Swede Island to wander around. We had lunch on a cute little cobble beach surrounded by islands. Afterwards we took the interior route between Spain and Borden Islands. The waterway was small but the scenery made it worth every effort. There were small rock cliffs plunging into the crystal blue water. There could have been a gale going on in the big lake and we would have never felt it being so tucked away. Brenda and I both made a note to visit this area again because there was just too much exploring and not enough time.
Our last jump took us across Shesheeb Bay, Otter Island into Pleasant Harbour. Here we set up shop for the night. There were plenty of moose tracks on the beach so we will be keeping our eyes peeled for visitors this evening!
Trip: 956.61 mi
Today was a great day for island hopping. We first crossed over to Magnet Point (with little magnetic disturbance which was a bit disappointing). From there we wandered in and out of the many islands in the bays. Lake Superior was in a great mood with her placid water.
Feeling daring we went through the Barklay Islands and then wandered over to Swede Island to wander around. We had lunch on a cute little cobble beach surrounded by islands. Afterwards we took the interior route between Spain and Borden Islands. The waterway was small but the scenery made it worth every effort. There were small rock cliffs plunging into the crystal blue water. There could have been a gale going on in the big lake and we would have never felt it being so tucked away. Brenda and I both made a note to visit this area again because there was just too much exploring and not enough time.
Our last jump took us across Shesheeb Bay, Otter Island into Pleasant Harbour. Here we set up shop for the night. There were plenty of moose tracks on the beach so we will be keeping our eyes peeled for visitors this evening!
Day 65- August 18, 2010
Today: 11.56 mi
Trip: 931.55 mi
After four days of down time in Silver Islet, Ontario, we were more than ready to hit the water. With Brenda's hand feeling much better and the winds finally subsiding getting back in the kayak was a done deal. Shelly was so kind as to transport us back to Silver Islet from Thunder Bay in the morning and we were on the water just before noon. Saying goodbye to the little town was bitter sweet but we had to make a break with the weather.
We first made a crossing over to Sand Island which put us officially off the Sibley Peninsula. Yay! From there we hit Clark Island, stopped for a lunch break and then made for Hardscrabble Island. The waves picked up just enough to make some funny water as we entered the channel between Porphyry and Edward Island. Try as we might to see a moose, they all eluded us.
We ended up camping on the east end of Edward Island with a great view of the Paps and Magnet Island. It felt good to be back in the saddle again and tomorrow we shall go island hopping!
Trip: 931.55 mi
After four days of down time in Silver Islet, Ontario, we were more than ready to hit the water. With Brenda's hand feeling much better and the winds finally subsiding getting back in the kayak was a done deal. Shelly was so kind as to transport us back to Silver Islet from Thunder Bay in the morning and we were on the water just before noon. Saying goodbye to the little town was bitter sweet but we had to make a break with the weather.
We first made a crossing over to Sand Island which put us officially off the Sibley Peninsula. Yay! From there we hit Clark Island, stopped for a lunch break and then made for Hardscrabble Island. The waves picked up just enough to make some funny water as we entered the channel between Porphyry and Edward Island. Try as we might to see a moose, they all eluded us.
We ended up camping on the east end of Edward Island with a great view of the Paps and Magnet Island. It felt good to be back in the saddle again and tomorrow we shall go island hopping!
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
August 17, 2010
We made it to Canada!!!
Passing through Grand Portage was very nice. We were able to see the Witch Tree, Suzie Islands and at last Pigeon Point. Being chased by a storm as we rounded the point, we ducked into the hole in the wall and took refuge in the cabin there.
Once in Canada, we were making great headway. We paddled along Victoria, Jarvis, and Thompson Island. The crossing over to Pie Island went very well, so well in fact that we were tempted to cross right over to Thunder Cape. Lake Superior had other plans. She blew us off the water just before Turtle Head Point and we holed up on the beach until morning. We knew there were going to be strong wind warning in effect the following day and planned to hit the crossing hard in the morning before the big blow.
5 am, weather radio comes on. "This is the forecast for Friday, August 13, 2010"... what?!? I had no idea it was Friday the thirteenth. Great. They were still calling for big winds in the afternoon so we rolled out of the tent to pack up. The sun was just beginning to light the sky when it happened....bright red sky. Crap, that's strike number two. Try as we might, we swallowed our superstitious ways and headed out for the crossing.
We made it about two miles in when we first heard rumbles. Thunder? Thunder Bay grain elevators? We had no idea but pressed on. More rumbles came and went with nothing too threatening in the clouds. Three miles passed and that was great... no turning back, the crossing was half way over. Just about the time we reached the freighter channel we saw a freighter on the horizon. Perfect. We had to adjust our heading a tad to avoid collision (minor detail) but all in all things went well. We landed in Thunder Cape with nothing more than a few rattled nerves and thanked the lake for being so kind for our crossing.
When we pulled out of Thunder Cape the winds started. We battled a headwind and hit the shore for the occasional thunderstorm and eventually landed in Silver Islet, Ontario. The smell of "Sin" buns filled the air and we found the most fabulous people in the General Store on the water. They have a Tea Room open from 1-5 and serve soup, coffee, and desserts. Great food and people were just what we needed after a cold rainy day.
As the case may be...we have been at Silver Islet since August 13. The high wind warnings turned into gale warnings and as of today the winds are still blowing. Waves were kicking up to 12 feet and wind gusts up to 35 knots. We visited the Tea Room daily and have met some great people from the town. We even had a sauna. For being wind bound, things are not too shabby.
It is also a good thing the winds kicked up for mom. Apparently sometime between Grand Portage and Pie Island she acquired a small blood blister on her hand. The small blister turned into a large blister, ruptured, and caused swelling up her hand and finger. We are thinking a spider is to blame and we were fortunate enough to find someone willing to drive us into Thunder Bay to visit the hospital. She is on antibiotics and we are waiting to see if they work before heading on our journey.
Passing through Grand Portage was very nice. We were able to see the Witch Tree, Suzie Islands and at last Pigeon Point. Being chased by a storm as we rounded the point, we ducked into the hole in the wall and took refuge in the cabin there.
Once in Canada, we were making great headway. We paddled along Victoria, Jarvis, and Thompson Island. The crossing over to Pie Island went very well, so well in fact that we were tempted to cross right over to Thunder Cape. Lake Superior had other plans. She blew us off the water just before Turtle Head Point and we holed up on the beach until morning. We knew there were going to be strong wind warning in effect the following day and planned to hit the crossing hard in the morning before the big blow.
5 am, weather radio comes on. "This is the forecast for Friday, August 13, 2010"... what?!? I had no idea it was Friday the thirteenth. Great. They were still calling for big winds in the afternoon so we rolled out of the tent to pack up. The sun was just beginning to light the sky when it happened....bright red sky. Crap, that's strike number two. Try as we might, we swallowed our superstitious ways and headed out for the crossing.
We made it about two miles in when we first heard rumbles. Thunder? Thunder Bay grain elevators? We had no idea but pressed on. More rumbles came and went with nothing too threatening in the clouds. Three miles passed and that was great... no turning back, the crossing was half way over. Just about the time we reached the freighter channel we saw a freighter on the horizon. Perfect. We had to adjust our heading a tad to avoid collision (minor detail) but all in all things went well. We landed in Thunder Cape with nothing more than a few rattled nerves and thanked the lake for being so kind for our crossing.
When we pulled out of Thunder Cape the winds started. We battled a headwind and hit the shore for the occasional thunderstorm and eventually landed in Silver Islet, Ontario. The smell of "Sin" buns filled the air and we found the most fabulous people in the General Store on the water. They have a Tea Room open from 1-5 and serve soup, coffee, and desserts. Great food and people were just what we needed after a cold rainy day.
As the case may be...we have been at Silver Islet since August 13. The high wind warnings turned into gale warnings and as of today the winds are still blowing. Waves were kicking up to 12 feet and wind gusts up to 35 knots. We visited the Tea Room daily and have met some great people from the town. We even had a sauna. For being wind bound, things are not too shabby.
It is also a good thing the winds kicked up for mom. Apparently sometime between Grand Portage and Pie Island she acquired a small blood blister on her hand. The small blister turned into a large blister, ruptured, and caused swelling up her hand and finger. We are thinking a spider is to blame and we were fortunate enough to find someone willing to drive us into Thunder Bay to visit the hospital. She is on antibiotics and we are waiting to see if they work before heading on our journey.
Monday, August 16, 2010
Sunday, August 8, 2010
Special Note-August 8, 2010
Looking at the map it is plain to see that we are nearing Canada. Unfortunately I will be unable to post everyday but will catch everyone up as I find service areas. I hope you will continue to follow us at:
www.spotadventures.com
Search for adventure name: a superior paddle
From there if you follow our adventure you can get up to the 10- minute detail as to where we are.
Four weeks left to go!!
See you in Michigan!!
www.spotadventures.com
Search for adventure name: a superior paddle
From there if you follow our adventure you can get up to the 10- minute detail as to where we are.
Four weeks left to go!!
See you in Michigan!!
Day 55-August 7, 2010
Oh what to say about today. It was a chilly morning but we had a pleasant paddle into Grand Marais. There was a local festival going on complete with floatplanes taking off from the harbor. We landed with the intention of getting lunch and supplies before taking off. Our plans soon changed.
About 5 mind after landing on the beach we were approached by the DNR. We were questioned about our kayak-moreso as to why it was not registered in MN. Apparently since Michigan and Virginia (our states of residence) do not require registration we needed to register our vessel with the Minnesota DNR. We were given some numbers to call and informed that if we were on the water without registering we would be in for a $135 fine.
Ok, slight problem. We called the numbers. Offices were closed until Monday. Next we tried the local outfitter Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply. They helped us try to register online. We could not because we are not Minnesota residents. The owner tried talking with the DNR to come up with some option. A couple hours later we were left with three. 1)Wait until Monday and catch a ride to Lutsen to the nearest DNR office. 2)Catch a ride to the Canadian Border and skip the last 37 miles of shoreline. 3)Make a run for the border before dawn.
We were not exactly thrilled with any of these options. When we were told that we may encounter more than a fine if we ran we felt even more grim. Especially since we had been talking with the DNR all day, there was no way to sneak.
Finally a solution came through. We were issued a warning ticket with the stipulation that we would purchase a Minnesota registration once back in Michigan. It took hours to get to that point and were delighted to take the deal.
We then geared up from the outfitter and stayed at a campground in the harbor. Not the best time in Grand Marais but at least we had wonderful
People helping us along the way.
Thanks again to all the folks at Stone Harbor, you are a lifesaver!
About 5 mind after landing on the beach we were approached by the DNR. We were questioned about our kayak-moreso as to why it was not registered in MN. Apparently since Michigan and Virginia (our states of residence) do not require registration we needed to register our vessel with the Minnesota DNR. We were given some numbers to call and informed that if we were on the water without registering we would be in for a $135 fine.
Ok, slight problem. We called the numbers. Offices were closed until Monday. Next we tried the local outfitter Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply. They helped us try to register online. We could not because we are not Minnesota residents. The owner tried talking with the DNR to come up with some option. A couple hours later we were left with three. 1)Wait until Monday and catch a ride to Lutsen to the nearest DNR office. 2)Catch a ride to the Canadian Border and skip the last 37 miles of shoreline. 3)Make a run for the border before dawn.
We were not exactly thrilled with any of these options. When we were told that we may encounter more than a fine if we ran we felt even more grim. Especially since we had been talking with the DNR all day, there was no way to sneak.
Finally a solution came through. We were issued a warning ticket with the stipulation that we would purchase a Minnesota registration once back in Michigan. It took hours to get to that point and were delighted to take the deal.
We then geared up from the outfitter and stayed at a campground in the harbor. Not the best time in Grand Marais but at least we had wonderful
People helping us along the way.
Thanks again to all the folks at Stone Harbor, you are a lifesaver!
Day 54-August 6, 2010
Today: 17.21 mi
Trip: 801.32 mi
Late mornings are grand! We slept in, drank coffee, and watched TV. Mundane but oh so much fun.
It was hard to leave all the friendly people from the resort but we had to be heading on. We launched a little after 2 pm and paddled onward. Still feeling good, we bypassed Lutsen and made way for the Cascade River.
Along the shore there were plenty of houses. We could hardly find places to take a break so when we reached the Cascade River we were very excited. During the day the wind had shifted bringing in some bitter cold air. I do believe a chilly night is in store.
Trip: 801.32 mi
Late mornings are grand! We slept in, drank coffee, and watched TV. Mundane but oh so much fun.
It was hard to leave all the friendly people from the resort but we had to be heading on. We launched a little after 2 pm and paddled onward. Still feeling good, we bypassed Lutsen and made way for the Cascade River.
Along the shore there were plenty of houses. We could hardly find places to take a break so when we reached the Cascade River we were very excited. During the day the wind had shifted bringing in some bitter cold air. I do believe a chilly night is in store.
Day 53-August 5, 2010
Today: 8.17 mi
Trip: 784.11 mi
Taconite Harbor was in our sights and our minds this morning. We had a nice following swell, light winds, and no fog. Try to sneak up on us today freighter!!
We made the quick jump to the harbor and continued on. We were in search of a hot shower and some real food. Father Baraga's Cross was perched at the Cross River and we remembered his statue back in Baraga, MI before moving on.
Just outside of Tofte, MN we ran into a kayak guide from Bluefin Bay Resort. He, as well as the rest of the staff we met were more than accomodating. We stated at the resort (not too pricy), ate wonderful food, and even did some laundry! Rest and relaxation is just what we needed.
Trip: 784.11 mi
Taconite Harbor was in our sights and our minds this morning. We had a nice following swell, light winds, and no fog. Try to sneak up on us today freighter!!
We made the quick jump to the harbor and continued on. We were in search of a hot shower and some real food. Father Baraga's Cross was perched at the Cross River and we remembered his statue back in Baraga, MI before moving on.
Just outside of Tofte, MN we ran into a kayak guide from Bluefin Bay Resort. He, as well as the rest of the staff we met were more than accomodating. We stated at the resort (not too pricy), ate wonderful food, and even did some laundry! Rest and relaxation is just what we needed.
Day 52-August 4, 2010
Placid water and clear skies greeted us this morning-quite a warm welcome. After packing up we saw another kayaker and chatted a bit before taking off.
First we passed the Baptism River which boasted a small rock arch nearby. Shovel Point came next with it's near vertical shoreline plunging straight into the lake. At the very tip we saw some overlookers skipping and flailing about. Apparently they were being chased by stable flies and soon they were all over us too.
At the next beach we saw a huge cave that looked like it had a small opening at the end. We took the chance and led The Beast inside. The cave was full of swallows which were constantly darting at our heads. As we rounded the turn toward the exit we had barely six inches of clearance. Victory was ours wand we did not leave a single spec of fiberglass.
Now along this journey we have seem our share of waterfalls. From the tall to short, wide to near non existant we thought we had seen it all but the Manitou River truly shocked us. I am sure there are more fantastic flowing falls with diversions and interesting deviations. The sheet magnitude of the water flowing over the Manitou River falls is unmatched for this expedition. We heard it's thundering sound and saw the spray long before we neared the cove. Once there we sat in awe and wonder.
With sugarloaf cove in our sights we headed on. Clouds were building all around and NOAA called for storms. When we saw clouds of impending doom heading our way, we hit the shore. Nothing came but rain and a beautiful
Rainbow. Things cleared and we made a run for our intended campsite on the water trail. Clouds of impending doom returned. We came to the spot to find the landing to be solid rock. Dang. Our only choice was to race farther and landed on the first cobble beach we came to and set up the tent. It rained, thundered, and then more spectacular rainbows appeared. We could see every color along the entire arch. It was too close to get a picture of it fully. Ironically enough all the rainbow ends just happened to end on shore and in Lake Superior-our pot of gold indeed.
First we passed the Baptism River which boasted a small rock arch nearby. Shovel Point came next with it's near vertical shoreline plunging straight into the lake. At the very tip we saw some overlookers skipping and flailing about. Apparently they were being chased by stable flies and soon they were all over us too.
At the next beach we saw a huge cave that looked like it had a small opening at the end. We took the chance and led The Beast inside. The cave was full of swallows which were constantly darting at our heads. As we rounded the turn toward the exit we had barely six inches of clearance. Victory was ours wand we did not leave a single spec of fiberglass.
Now along this journey we have seem our share of waterfalls. From the tall to short, wide to near non existant we thought we had seen it all but the Manitou River truly shocked us. I am sure there are more fantastic flowing falls with diversions and interesting deviations. The sheet magnitude of the water flowing over the Manitou River falls is unmatched for this expedition. We heard it's thundering sound and saw the spray long before we neared the cove. Once there we sat in awe and wonder.
With sugarloaf cove in our sights we headed on. Clouds were building all around and NOAA called for storms. When we saw clouds of impending doom heading our way, we hit the shore. Nothing came but rain and a beautiful
Rainbow. Things cleared and we made a run for our intended campsite on the water trail. Clouds of impending doom returned. We came to the spot to find the landing to be solid rock. Dang. Our only choice was to race farther and landed on the first cobble beach we came to and set up the tent. It rained, thundered, and then more spectacular rainbows appeared. We could see every color along the entire arch. It was too close to get a picture of it fully. Ironically enough all the rainbow ends just happened to end on shore and in Lake Superior-our pot of gold indeed.
Friday, August 6, 2010
Day 51-August 3, 2010
Today: 8.44 mi
Trip: 756.94 mi
This morning was very foggy and quiet (except for the falcons of course). Most of the fog was offshore and we watched fishing boats coming and going from Silver Bay Harbor. We made our first push to Pellet Island which yielded a great view of Silver Bay Harbor and the freighter dock.
We started to cross the channel at the same time a small motor boat was. We got about halfway across when the wind shifted and the fog rolled in thick. Mom and I both took a compass reading before we lost sight of the dock and then the land just 1/4 mi away. We also lost sight of the motor boat. Lets just say our paddling pace picked up a bit and when the fog began to lift again we could see we were right on track and just passed the red channel buoy. We could barely see land again and we breathed a huge sigh of relief.
Sticking very close to shore now, we came to the harbor fog horn about 5 min later. We just about hit the roof when we heard a large horn offshore answer back! It sounded so close yet we could not see anything and heard no motor. Paddling on we tried to tell ourselves that it was just a large fishing boat that passed.
The winds started to really pick up so we hit the beach just short of Pallisade Head. We watched the fog blow up and over the 900 ft cliff and the large radio tower perched on top. We lost sight of the cliffs more than once and we were happy to not be out in the fog, wind, and waves.
In the early afternoon things calmed down and we headed out. We did see our friendly foghorn friend leave the harbor. It turned out to be a large freighter...too close for comfort I say.
We poked around the caves near the Pallisade Head and camped in Tettegouche State Park with a view of Shovel Point. It may have been a short mile day but I think our stress made up the difference.
Trip: 756.94 mi
This morning was very foggy and quiet (except for the falcons of course). Most of the fog was offshore and we watched fishing boats coming and going from Silver Bay Harbor. We made our first push to Pellet Island which yielded a great view of Silver Bay Harbor and the freighter dock.
We started to cross the channel at the same time a small motor boat was. We got about halfway across when the wind shifted and the fog rolled in thick. Mom and I both took a compass reading before we lost sight of the dock and then the land just 1/4 mi away. We also lost sight of the motor boat. Lets just say our paddling pace picked up a bit and when the fog began to lift again we could see we were right on track and just passed the red channel buoy. We could barely see land again and we breathed a huge sigh of relief.
Sticking very close to shore now, we came to the harbor fog horn about 5 min later. We just about hit the roof when we heard a large horn offshore answer back! It sounded so close yet we could not see anything and heard no motor. Paddling on we tried to tell ourselves that it was just a large fishing boat that passed.
The winds started to really pick up so we hit the beach just short of Pallisade Head. We watched the fog blow up and over the 900 ft cliff and the large radio tower perched on top. We lost sight of the cliffs more than once and we were happy to not be out in the fog, wind, and waves.
In the early afternoon things calmed down and we headed out. We did see our friendly foghorn friend leave the harbor. It turned out to be a large freighter...too close for comfort I say.
We poked around the caves near the Pallisade Head and camped in Tettegouche State Park with a view of Shovel Point. It may have been a short mile day but I think our stress made up the difference.
Day 50-August 2, 2010
Today: 20.39 mi
Trip: 748.50 mi
Well, we may have had at least one hour of quiet last night. Storms trained all night long leaving us with a cold foggy morning. We could barely see the islands just offshore as we launched.
We stayed near the shore so as not to loose our way. Shortly after Castle Danger we could hear a small motor through the fog. The noise continued for quite a while with no change so we thought nothing of it. Once we saw people running out of their homes with binoculars we became even more curious. Then it happened. Out of the fog came three large masts of a tall ship! It looked very eerie and we joked about it looking like ghost ship. The ship stayed with us just offshore all the way to Gooseberry Falls State Park where we stopped for lunch.
After lunch on the beach we hiked up to the falls and stopped by the visitors center to pick up water trail maps. From there we proceeded to Split Rock Lighthouse which was just stunning.
Our long day came to a close just short of Beaver Bay. There was a nice cobble beach tucked between some cliffs. The only drawback were the falcons nesting nearby. They made fore a noisy night.
Trip: 748.50 mi
Well, we may have had at least one hour of quiet last night. Storms trained all night long leaving us with a cold foggy morning. We could barely see the islands just offshore as we launched.
We stayed near the shore so as not to loose our way. Shortly after Castle Danger we could hear a small motor through the fog. The noise continued for quite a while with no change so we thought nothing of it. Once we saw people running out of their homes with binoculars we became even more curious. Then it happened. Out of the fog came three large masts of a tall ship! It looked very eerie and we joked about it looking like ghost ship. The ship stayed with us just offshore all the way to Gooseberry Falls State Park where we stopped for lunch.
After lunch on the beach we hiked up to the falls and stopped by the visitors center to pick up water trail maps. From there we proceeded to Split Rock Lighthouse which was just stunning.
Our long day came to a close just short of Beaver Bay. There was a nice cobble beach tucked between some cliffs. The only drawback were the falcons nesting nearby. They made fore a noisy night.
Day 49-August 1, 2010
Today: 24.78 mi
Trip: 728.11 mi
Good morning Minnesota! It was a beautiful first morning as we hit the water. We saw a few freighters and very scenic shoreline.
It was not long before we came up Agate Bay. I am still amazed by the size of the oar docks and the one in Agate Bay came complete with a freighter. The lighthouse was nice and there were a lot of people out walking around. We decided not to land and continued past the lesser developed Burlington Bay too.
Silver Cliff came next on our journey. As expected, the cliff as a sure sign of the elevation on this part of the lake and there was a tunnel for highway traffic too. Apparently it is one of the longest tunnels in the Midwest.
We were hoping to make more miles today but some approaching storms chased us off the water. Our luck came again. We landed on the beach of an ultra exclusive gated community. Luckily they let us stay without too much trouble.
Trip: 728.11 mi
Good morning Minnesota! It was a beautiful first morning as we hit the water. We saw a few freighters and very scenic shoreline.
It was not long before we came up Agate Bay. I am still amazed by the size of the oar docks and the one in Agate Bay came complete with a freighter. The lighthouse was nice and there were a lot of people out walking around. We decided not to land and continued past the lesser developed Burlington Bay too.
Silver Cliff came next on our journey. As expected, the cliff as a sure sign of the elevation on this part of the lake and there was a tunnel for highway traffic too. Apparently it is one of the longest tunnels in the Midwest.
We were hoping to make more miles today but some approaching storms chased us off the water. Our luck came again. We landed on the beach of an ultra exclusive gated community. Luckily they let us stay without too much trouble.
Day 48-July 31, 2010
Today: 21.22 mi
Trip: 703.33 mi
What a difference a day can make! It was gloomy when we paddled across the Superior Entrance but as soon as we crossed, everything changed. No joke! The sun came out, there were people on the beach and the water returned to the deep crystal blue we love.
Lunchtime approached as we neared the Duluth Entry. The lift bridge horn sounded and scared us but we were incredibly surprised to see a tall ship come through. The ship came out into the lake and raised all of its sails. What a grand sight.
On the shore we mingled with the locals and took in the many of the sights. We say a few more tall ships sail around and two had a mock battle when they met under the lift bridge. Cannons fired and horn were bellowing but in the end all survived.
After our long lunch we felt energized by the excitement in the air and continued on our journey. As our luck would have it, just as we were trying to cross the Duluth entrance, a mini freighter called the Sundew staged itself to enter. The good thing was he took up most of the channel so we crossed just behind him. He blocked many of the out going vessels which made for a fairly easy crossing.
Since we had been looking at the debris filled beaches the past few day we welcomed the rock shoreline of Minnesota. We paddled past many roadside parks, small cobble beaches, and people out enjoying life. We camped on a small cobble beach near the road and enjoyed the lights of Duluth before heading to bed.
Trip: 703.33 mi
What a difference a day can make! It was gloomy when we paddled across the Superior Entrance but as soon as we crossed, everything changed. No joke! The sun came out, there were people on the beach and the water returned to the deep crystal blue we love.
Lunchtime approached as we neared the Duluth Entry. The lift bridge horn sounded and scared us but we were incredibly surprised to see a tall ship come through. The ship came out into the lake and raised all of its sails. What a grand sight.
On the shore we mingled with the locals and took in the many of the sights. We say a few more tall ships sail around and two had a mock battle when they met under the lift bridge. Cannons fired and horn were bellowing but in the end all survived.
After our long lunch we felt energized by the excitement in the air and continued on our journey. As our luck would have it, just as we were trying to cross the Duluth entrance, a mini freighter called the Sundew staged itself to enter. The good thing was he took up most of the channel so we crossed just behind him. He blocked many of the out going vessels which made for a fairly easy crossing.
Since we had been looking at the debris filled beaches the past few day we welcomed the rock shoreline of Minnesota. We paddled past many roadside parks, small cobble beaches, and people out enjoying life. We camped on a small cobble beach near the road and enjoyed the lights of Duluth before heading to bed.
Day 47-July 30, 2010
Today: 16.87 mi
Trip: 682.11 mi
Another gloomy day greeted us this morning on Superior. We packed to leave when mom noticed the rudder had jammed. It was a semi-painless fix and within half an hour we were back on track.
We had another day of following seas and dirty beaches. There were a few fishing boats bobbing in the waves with us as we tried to make our way to Superior, WI. It stayed gloomy all day. Even when we landed just four miles from the the Superior Entrance Light we were unable to see the city.
Rain chased us to the tent early. Hopefully tomorrow will brighten our spirits.
Trip: 682.11 mi
Another gloomy day greeted us this morning on Superior. We packed to leave when mom noticed the rudder had jammed. It was a semi-painless fix and within half an hour we were back on track.
We had another day of following seas and dirty beaches. There were a few fishing boats bobbing in the waves with us as we tried to make our way to Superior, WI. It stayed gloomy all day. Even when we landed just four miles from the the Superior Entrance Light we were unable to see the city.
Rain chased us to the tent early. Hopefully tomorrow will brighten our spirits.
Day 46-July 29, 2010
Today: 20.07 mi
Trip: 665.24 mi
Ah...to be on the water again! NOAA predicted a tail wind, so of course we had a headwind all day. We said goodbye to our new friends and made way to Port Wing. Rocks lined the shore the whole way there. The are was rather desolate except for a few houses on the beach near the harbor entrance.
I was not feeling well (pizza left overnight) so we pulled off early for lunch. Apparently I picked a great place to get sick for we landed on our best agate beach yet! Three hours later we were back on the water with headwinds and heavy pockets.
As we neared the Iron River, Lake Superior took on a rather dull, pasty orange color. We were thinking it might be from the river but found that the color intensified as we went along. We could barely see the ends of our blades in the water and ran into shallow water a couple of times. The only indicator was the rudder as it banged against rocks. Beaches in the area were also strange. Many were littered with fallen tree debris and were shallow and lined with shrubs.
We were not impressed with the area but we did decide to camp on the Brule River. There was a small 'end of the road' park which we did not investigate and we were in the tent shortly after landing.
Trip: 665.24 mi
Ah...to be on the water again! NOAA predicted a tail wind, so of course we had a headwind all day. We said goodbye to our new friends and made way to Port Wing. Rocks lined the shore the whole way there. The are was rather desolate except for a few houses on the beach near the harbor entrance.
I was not feeling well (pizza left overnight) so we pulled off early for lunch. Apparently I picked a great place to get sick for we landed on our best agate beach yet! Three hours later we were back on the water with headwinds and heavy pockets.
As we neared the Iron River, Lake Superior took on a rather dull, pasty orange color. We were thinking it might be from the river but found that the color intensified as we went along. We could barely see the ends of our blades in the water and ran into shallow water a couple of times. The only indicator was the rudder as it banged against rocks. Beaches in the area were also strange. Many were littered with fallen tree debris and were shallow and lined with shrubs.
We were not impressed with the area but we did decide to camp on the Brule River. There was a small 'end of the road' park which we did not investigate and we were in the tent shortly after landing.
Day 45-July 28, 2010
Today: 0.0 mi
Trip: 645.17 mi
Now when Lake Superior kicks up storms as she did yesterday, she needs a day to calm down. It came as no surprise then that the waves and wind were too big to fight and we called it another wind day.
After coffee and breakfast at Tracy's we wandered over to our neighbors from Ontario to chat a bit. We were wined and dined with splendid conversation to boot well past lunch and almost to dinner. We decided to headed back to Woody's for pizza as recommended by our new found friends.
For an off day though we did some wildlife. We saw a few fox (one peed on our tent!), raccoons, and even a large black bear! Apparently Herbster has elk, wolves, and other critters that we were not fortunate enough to see.
Trip: 645.17 mi
Now when Lake Superior kicks up storms as she did yesterday, she needs a day to calm down. It came as no surprise then that the waves and wind were too big to fight and we called it another wind day.
After coffee and breakfast at Tracy's we wandered over to our neighbors from Ontario to chat a bit. We were wined and dined with splendid conversation to boot well past lunch and almost to dinner. We decided to headed back to Woody's for pizza as recommended by our new found friends.
For an off day though we did some wildlife. We saw a few fox (one peed on our tent!), raccoons, and even a large black bear! Apparently Herbster has elk, wolves, and other critters that we were not fortunate enough to see.
Day 44- July 27, 2010
Today: 0.0 mi
Trip: 645.17 mi
Now, NOAA weather radio is wrong about 99.9% of the time. Even so, when they are calling for waterspouts, hail, 40 mph gusts and tornadoes it is hard to ignore. The thunder in the distance sealed the deal and we decided to stay in Herbster another day.
We walked into town, this time to eat at Tracy's, the other restaurant in town. Bottomless coffee, a buttery breakfast, and being questioned by the locals was our morning. We pretty much met the town, handed out our blog, and went on our way. Did I mention Herbster has a laundromat? Well it does and that is just how we spent our afternoon. Clean clothes are wonderful!
By the time dinner rolled around we had had a thunderstorm, tornado watch, and a tornado warning issued. Barbara from Ontario insisted we take shelter in her camper if this really picked up. Instead we headed back to Tracy's to watch TV and hear the going ons. All in all there were three tornadoes, two within 20 miles of our camp. We were glad we stayed put and went to bed after the last thunderstorm rolled through and a double rainbow made a showing.
Trip: 645.17 mi
Now, NOAA weather radio is wrong about 99.9% of the time. Even so, when they are calling for waterspouts, hail, 40 mph gusts and tornadoes it is hard to ignore. The thunder in the distance sealed the deal and we decided to stay in Herbster another day.
We walked into town, this time to eat at Tracy's, the other restaurant in town. Bottomless coffee, a buttery breakfast, and being questioned by the locals was our morning. We pretty much met the town, handed out our blog, and went on our way. Did I mention Herbster has a laundromat? Well it does and that is just how we spent our afternoon. Clean clothes are wonderful!
By the time dinner rolled around we had had a thunderstorm, tornado watch, and a tornado warning issued. Barbara from Ontario insisted we take shelter in her camper if this really picked up. Instead we headed back to Tracy's to watch TV and hear the going ons. All in all there were three tornadoes, two within 20 miles of our camp. We were glad we stayed put and went to bed after the last thunderstorm rolled through and a double rainbow made a showing.
Thursday, August 5, 2010
Friday, July 30, 2010
Day 43-July 26, 2010
Today: 15.32 mi
Trip: 645.17 mi
Packing up this morning put us right back into our routine. We hit the water early feeling the last nine days of paddling.
Coming out of Cornucopia we rounded Roman Point. What a treat! The whole shore was rock caves and arches; all the way into Bark Bay. They may not have been as spectacular as the ones we had been seeing, but they were not bad either.
We stopped for a quick break at the beach in Back Bay. The shore was fairly populated but there was a nice boat ramp on the NE side of the bay.
As we rounded Bark Point we had every intention of Paddling to Port Wing. Best laid plans often change and we stopped in Herbster instead. Now, we knew there was not a campground in Port Wing and our camp host from Little Sand Bay informed us of this gem at Herbster. The campground was right on the water with tent camping just off the beach. There was a bathroom, water, and no shower. We even hiked the massive two blocks into town for Dinner at Woody's. The only downfall was no cell service but the grocery store had wifi so it all worked out.
Trip: 645.17 mi
Packing up this morning put us right back into our routine. We hit the water early feeling the last nine days of paddling.
Coming out of Cornucopia we rounded Roman Point. What a treat! The whole shore was rock caves and arches; all the way into Bark Bay. They may not have been as spectacular as the ones we had been seeing, but they were not bad either.
We stopped for a quick break at the beach in Back Bay. The shore was fairly populated but there was a nice boat ramp on the NE side of the bay.
As we rounded Bark Point we had every intention of Paddling to Port Wing. Best laid plans often change and we stopped in Herbster instead. Now, we knew there was not a campground in Port Wing and our camp host from Little Sand Bay informed us of this gem at Herbster. The campground was right on the water with tent camping just off the beach. There was a bathroom, water, and no shower. We even hiked the massive two blocks into town for Dinner at Woody's. The only downfall was no cell service but the grocery store had wifi so it all worked out.
Day 42-July 25, 2010
Launching this morning was bittersweet. It would have been fun to sit around and chat with our new friends all day but Superior was calling. Our send off was the biggest one yet. Once out on the water the silence came back and we were missing the socialization already.
Rounding Sand Point we took a few good hits from waves. All we could say was seriously?!? Things did calm down, but not until after the washing machine reflective waves off the point. The beautiful sand beach just before the next round of cliffs was calling our name for lunch. Apparently it was calling others too for we were with some 40 other kayakers.
Paddling the caves before Sqaw Bay were something else. The Beast was too large to get into most of them but we did travel through a few sea arches before the day was through. The beach at Sqaw Bay offered a good break with bathrooms before we rounded Sqaw Point.
There were far less people and rock formations around Sqae Point. A dirty sand beach at Cornucopia awaited us. We camped away from the harbor entrance but found ourselves near some off shore springs. Apparently an attraction for locals. We had to wait a while before putting up our tent. We swam in the clearer water near the harbor to cool off and took a nap on the beach.
Rounding Sand Point we took a few good hits from waves. All we could say was seriously?!? Things did calm down, but not until after the washing machine reflective waves off the point. The beautiful sand beach just before the next round of cliffs was calling our name for lunch. Apparently it was calling others too for we were with some 40 other kayakers.
Paddling the caves before Sqaw Bay were something else. The Beast was too large to get into most of them but we did travel through a few sea arches before the day was through. The beach at Sqaw Bay offered a good break with bathrooms before we rounded Sqaw Point.
There were far less people and rock formations around Sqae Point. A dirty sand beach at Cornucopia awaited us. We camped away from the harbor entrance but found ourselves near some off shore springs. Apparently an attraction for locals. We had to wait a while before putting up our tent. We swam in the clearer water near the harbor to cool off and took a nap on the beach.
Day 41- July 24, 2010
Today: 17.73 mi
Trip: 615.65 mi
No sun this morning, just gloomy clouds, light NE winds and swells between us and Devil's Island. We packed up in a light rain shower and headed out onto the water.
Taking the 1-2 ft waves broadside was not exactly a nice way to make the crossing, but we made it nonetheless. We tucked into the harbor on the south side before taking the lee side of the island to look at caves. They were impressive. Even though we were in The Beast, we were able to travel through some of the arches. We tried to round the north end of the island but got only as far as the lighthouse before the waves started being too stupid.
After chatting with some weekend renegade paddlers from Duluth we made the crossing over to Bear Island. We had a nice following sea that gently pushed us along. We stopped briefly at a cobble beach for lunch. As I was visiting the woods a ferry boat came around the corner! I tried to rush out to the kayak before the big waves came but slipped on some rocks and catapulted myself into the water instead. Grace and style never were my forte.
Since the crossing to Bear went well we continued on to York Island. The waves were thinking about picking up but laid back down instead allowing us to make the final crossing to Little Sand Bay.
We were greeted fondly at the Town of Russell Campground. A kayak hub for the area. I had severe boat envy watching all the boats go by. We parked our minivan of a boat in the beach and spent much of the evening chatting with fellow kayakers. There were groups from Iowa, Minnesota, and the camp host was one in a million. We headed to bed late with intentions to sleep in. We hit our 600 mile mark today! No pressure for tomorrow.
Trip: 615.65 mi
No sun this morning, just gloomy clouds, light NE winds and swells between us and Devil's Island. We packed up in a light rain shower and headed out onto the water.
Taking the 1-2 ft waves broadside was not exactly a nice way to make the crossing, but we made it nonetheless. We tucked into the harbor on the south side before taking the lee side of the island to look at caves. They were impressive. Even though we were in The Beast, we were able to travel through some of the arches. We tried to round the north end of the island but got only as far as the lighthouse before the waves started being too stupid.
After chatting with some weekend renegade paddlers from Duluth we made the crossing over to Bear Island. We had a nice following sea that gently pushed us along. We stopped briefly at a cobble beach for lunch. As I was visiting the woods a ferry boat came around the corner! I tried to rush out to the kayak before the big waves came but slipped on some rocks and catapulted myself into the water instead. Grace and style never were my forte.
Since the crossing to Bear went well we continued on to York Island. The waves were thinking about picking up but laid back down instead allowing us to make the final crossing to Little Sand Bay.
We were greeted fondly at the Town of Russell Campground. A kayak hub for the area. I had severe boat envy watching all the boats go by. We parked our minivan of a boat in the beach and spent much of the evening chatting with fellow kayakers. There were groups from Iowa, Minnesota, and the camp host was one in a million. We headed to bed late with intentions to sleep in. We hit our 600 mile mark today! No pressure for tomorrow.
Tuesday, July 27, 2010
Day 40- July 23, 2010
Today: 24.76 mi
Trip: 597.92 mi
Happy Birthday Brad!!!
A south wind was blowing as we launched out of Bayfield which gave us a nice push all the way to Redcliff Point. We saw two kayak tour groups along the way and decided to make our first of three crossings for the day. At just under two miles is should not have been bad. Let's just say we were wrong.
Starting out, the crossing was going great. There were very small waves slapping the boat and a slight breeze. Oh how quickly that changed! We were in the middle of our crossing when the wind really started to blow. The waves built to two footers in just a few minutes. They kept building and stacking closer and closer together. I am almost certain we ran over a few four footers before the crossing was done. We could hardly set a ferry angle to reach the shore but we did eventually make it. We landed on the sand spit and chatted with a local guide from Living Adventures. We were all amazed at how the weather had picked up.
After a break to settle our nerves we headed east and then north around the non windy side of Oak Island. We took another break before the crossing to Otter Island to evalute the weather. We took a following sea with 2 ft waves. From the dock we rounded the island and went straight into the crossing to Rocky Island. We encountered wind but no waves that time.
We had dinner on the south end of Rocky Island before heading around to the north end for some back country camping. Paddling along today I was able to see most if the islands. Our camp for the night, however, faced Devil's Island- our intended destination for tomorrow.
Trip: 597.92 mi
Happy Birthday Brad!!!
A south wind was blowing as we launched out of Bayfield which gave us a nice push all the way to Redcliff Point. We saw two kayak tour groups along the way and decided to make our first of three crossings for the day. At just under two miles is should not have been bad. Let's just say we were wrong.
Starting out, the crossing was going great. There were very small waves slapping the boat and a slight breeze. Oh how quickly that changed! We were in the middle of our crossing when the wind really started to blow. The waves built to two footers in just a few minutes. They kept building and stacking closer and closer together. I am almost certain we ran over a few four footers before the crossing was done. We could hardly set a ferry angle to reach the shore but we did eventually make it. We landed on the sand spit and chatted with a local guide from Living Adventures. We were all amazed at how the weather had picked up.
After a break to settle our nerves we headed east and then north around the non windy side of Oak Island. We took another break before the crossing to Otter Island to evalute the weather. We took a following sea with 2 ft waves. From the dock we rounded the island and went straight into the crossing to Rocky Island. We encountered wind but no waves that time.
We had dinner on the south end of Rocky Island before heading around to the north end for some back country camping. Paddling along today I was able to see most if the islands. Our camp for the night, however, faced Devil's Island- our intended destination for tomorrow.
Monday, July 26, 2010
Day 39-July 22, 2010
Lake Superior was flat as a pancake this morning. Our original plan was to cross to Madeline Island before making the cross into Bayfield. Since things were so calm and the distance relatively short, we went straight to Bayfield knowing we could bail onto Madeline with little effort.
Heading into Bayfield it became more apparent as to just how busy of a harbor it is. There were car ferries every half hour, numerous sailboats, power boats, and tour boats all departing from the same general area. It was a real-life frogger game as we made for the public beach just north of the ferry dock.
We walked into Bayfield looking for coffee and burgers. It was early for lunch so we split a cinnamon roll and coffee from Egg Toss before we got our permits for the Apostle Islands. Lunch at Maggies was a treat and we swung by the post office for our mail drop. I an sure we drew some attention walking through town with IKEA bags full of supplies.
After we repacked the kayak, we headed to a cabin for the night. Hot showers awaited us but alas, no TV. No bother.
Heading into Bayfield it became more apparent as to just how busy of a harbor it is. There were car ferries every half hour, numerous sailboats, power boats, and tour boats all departing from the same general area. It was a real-life frogger game as we made for the public beach just north of the ferry dock.
We walked into Bayfield looking for coffee and burgers. It was early for lunch so we split a cinnamon roll and coffee from Egg Toss before we got our permits for the Apostle Islands. Lunch at Maggies was a treat and we swung by the post office for our mail drop. I an sure we drew some attention walking through town with IKEA bags full of supplies.
After we repacked the kayak, we headed to a cabin for the night. Hot showers awaited us but alas, no TV. No bother.
Day 38- July 21, 2010
Today: 18.92 mi
Trip: 566.71 mi
Well the sand beach last night was great. We rounded the rocky Marble Point to find more sand. In fact, all the way up Chequamegon Point was a long, sandy beach. Having our pick of landings and seeing quite a few deer were the highlights of our day. The straight shoreline grew a bit tiresome but that may have been excentuated by the moderate headwind we encountered all day.
At any rate, we did paddle through the indian reservation (Chequamegon Point) onto Long Island. After fighting the headwind all day, we were in no mood to take on two crossings into Bayfield. We set up camp near LA Point Lighthouse and fell asleep with the sound of fisherman in the channel and the lights of Bayfield in the distance.
Trip: 566.71 mi
Well the sand beach last night was great. We rounded the rocky Marble Point to find more sand. In fact, all the way up Chequamegon Point was a long, sandy beach. Having our pick of landings and seeing quite a few deer were the highlights of our day. The straight shoreline grew a bit tiresome but that may have been excentuated by the moderate headwind we encountered all day.
At any rate, we did paddle through the indian reservation (Chequamegon Point) onto Long Island. After fighting the headwind all day, we were in no mood to take on two crossings into Bayfield. We set up camp near LA Point Lighthouse and fell asleep with the sound of fisherman in the channel and the lights of Bayfield in the distance.
Thursday, July 22, 2010
Day 37-July 20, 2010
Paddling out from Black River Harbor was uneventful. The shoreline varied from sand to rock and back to sand. We passed a large group of boyscouts out with a local outfitter.
We stopped for lunch in between rain showers just before we rounded Little Girls Point. There was a campground and day park with plenty of people rock hunting on the cobble beach.
After rounding Little Girls Point the shoreline once again became very rocky and steep. We watched a deer navigate down the steep rock for a drink which made for quite a sight. The steep rocks soon turned into cliffs with no breaks until the Montreal River.
In between rain showers we were able to catch our first glimpses of the Apostle Islands. Even from a distance they were beautiful.
The Montreal River came before we knew it. We unceremoniously crossed into Wisconsin and said our goodbyes to Michigan. Saxon Harbor looked nice and had a campground but we continued on. High sand dunes and beaches stretched all the way to Marble Point and we made good use of the area for camp.
We stopped for lunch in between rain showers just before we rounded Little Girls Point. There was a campground and day park with plenty of people rock hunting on the cobble beach.
After rounding Little Girls Point the shoreline once again became very rocky and steep. We watched a deer navigate down the steep rock for a drink which made for quite a sight. The steep rocks soon turned into cliffs with no breaks until the Montreal River.
In between rain showers we were able to catch our first glimpses of the Apostle Islands. Even from a distance they were beautiful.
The Montreal River came before we knew it. We unceremoniously crossed into Wisconsin and said our goodbyes to Michigan. Saxon Harbor looked nice and had a campground but we continued on. High sand dunes and beaches stretched all the way to Marble Point and we made good use of the area for camp.
Day 36-July 19, 2010
Today: 25.11 mi
Trip: 524.27 mi
After an early morning thunderstorm the north wind began to blow and a fog rolled in. Neither was too terrible, but we still took our time charging up phones and enjoying coffee. We did eventually make it out to the water after chatting with the local trail maintenance crew.
Even though Mom and I have both hiked the Porcupine Mountains, paddling it was a whole other experience. The entire paddle from Union Bay to Big Carp was the most rugged we have seen. Not olny was the shoreline literally vertical rock sheets, but there were also two and sometimes three rock shoals between us and shore. We picked our landinging very carefully and stood in the water holding the kayak rather than touching the shore.
Now we have had our eagle days, fish days, loon days, and deer days but today was the best/worst of them all. Today was bear day. We saw one bear strolling the beach about six miles into our paddle and thought ourselves lucky to finally see one. When we say our second four miles later again patrolling the beach we had other thoughts. Seeing the bear was great but the idea of camping on shore has now changed.
From Big Carp to Presque Isle River cobble beaches came frequently. After Presque Isle though, came long stretches of sand. Just what a fiberglass tandem loves.
We ended our day at the Black River Harbor, my personal favorite for the trip thus far. The harbor was quaint and had a large day park complete with a screened in pavillion with wood and fireplace. We camped on the beach to rest up for another day.
Trip: 524.27 mi
After an early morning thunderstorm the north wind began to blow and a fog rolled in. Neither was too terrible, but we still took our time charging up phones and enjoying coffee. We did eventually make it out to the water after chatting with the local trail maintenance crew.
Even though Mom and I have both hiked the Porcupine Mountains, paddling it was a whole other experience. The entire paddle from Union Bay to Big Carp was the most rugged we have seen. Not olny was the shoreline literally vertical rock sheets, but there were also two and sometimes three rock shoals between us and shore. We picked our landinging very carefully and stood in the water holding the kayak rather than touching the shore.
Now we have had our eagle days, fish days, loon days, and deer days but today was the best/worst of them all. Today was bear day. We saw one bear strolling the beach about six miles into our paddle and thought ourselves lucky to finally see one. When we say our second four miles later again patrolling the beach we had other thoughts. Seeing the bear was great but the idea of camping on shore has now changed.
From Big Carp to Presque Isle River cobble beaches came frequently. After Presque Isle though, came long stretches of sand. Just what a fiberglass tandem loves.
We ended our day at the Black River Harbor, my personal favorite for the trip thus far. The harbor was quaint and had a large day park complete with a screened in pavillion with wood and fireplace. We camped on the beach to rest up for another day.
Day 35-July 18, 2010
Today: 25.3 mi
Trip: 499.16 mi
Sunrise on the Porcupine Mountains was stunning. The early morning clouds were heavy with rain and all was still. Our friends from Escanaba passed us again and we were afloat shortly after. Our raincoats came in handy as it started to rain around 9 am. The paddle into Otonagon was pleasant. There were plenty of sand beaches with just a few areas if rock. We pulled out just before the factory on the north end of the harbor entrance and walked into town.
Syl's diner was on the top of our places to visit. We were soaked to the bone and looking for burgers, fries, and of course, bottomless coffee. Syl's delivered all that and then some. We even took pies and fritters to go for a dinner and breakfast treats. The food tasted so good we hardley even noticed how unusual we must have seemed. We were wet, unshowered, and surrounded by townsfolk dressed in their Sunday's finest.
With full bellies and treats in hand we trekked along. The beaches were heavily populated which made landing difficult. As we passed Silver City the crowds lessened until we hit Union Bay. We decided a hot shower sounded too nice to pass up so we tied our kayak to the dock and camped for the night at the Union Bay State Park.
Trip: 499.16 mi
Sunrise on the Porcupine Mountains was stunning. The early morning clouds were heavy with rain and all was still. Our friends from Escanaba passed us again and we were afloat shortly after. Our raincoats came in handy as it started to rain around 9 am. The paddle into Otonagon was pleasant. There were plenty of sand beaches with just a few areas if rock. We pulled out just before the factory on the north end of the harbor entrance and walked into town.
Syl's diner was on the top of our places to visit. We were soaked to the bone and looking for burgers, fries, and of course, bottomless coffee. Syl's delivered all that and then some. We even took pies and fritters to go for a dinner and breakfast treats. The food tasted so good we hardley even noticed how unusual we must have seemed. We were wet, unshowered, and surrounded by townsfolk dressed in their Sunday's finest.
With full bellies and treats in hand we trekked along. The beaches were heavily populated which made landing difficult. As we passed Silver City the crowds lessened until we hit Union Bay. We decided a hot shower sounded too nice to pass up so we tied our kayak to the dock and camped for the night at the Union Bay State Park.
Wednesday, July 21, 2010
Day 34-July 17, 2010
Today: 18.7 mi
Trip: 473.86 mi
So things this morning looked much better compared to the last two. We learned our lesson in Marquette about taking off too soon after a wave event and decided to take a long breakfast to let the final swells have their time.
As we started to pack up, three solo kayakers rounded the bend and landed in our bay for a quick snack. We chatted for a bit and joked that we would be playing leap frog since we were both bound for Duluth. After they left we finished packing up, ate lunch, and with eager paddles we made our move.
All of the beaches along Misery Bay looked worn away from the pounding waves. We rounded Willard Point, went by Sleeping Bay, and then to Fourteenmile Point where the neatest old lighthouse in desperate need if repair. From there we paddled around Tenmile Point and Bay. We camped on the next sand beach south which yielded a stunning view of the Porcupine Mountains. Not too bad for a half day paddle.
Trip: 473.86 mi
So things this morning looked much better compared to the last two. We learned our lesson in Marquette about taking off too soon after a wave event and decided to take a long breakfast to let the final swells have their time.
As we started to pack up, three solo kayakers rounded the bend and landed in our bay for a quick snack. We chatted for a bit and joked that we would be playing leap frog since we were both bound for Duluth. After they left we finished packing up, ate lunch, and with eager paddles we made our move.
All of the beaches along Misery Bay looked worn away from the pounding waves. We rounded Willard Point, went by Sleeping Bay, and then to Fourteenmile Point where the neatest old lighthouse in desperate need if repair. From there we paddled around Tenmile Point and Bay. We camped on the next sand beach south which yielded a stunning view of the Porcupine Mountains. Not too bad for a half day paddle.
Day 33-July 16, 2010
Today: 0.0 mi
Trip: 455.16 mi
Last night the waves were supposed to lay down to 1-3 ft. I do not think that happened at all! We woke up to a good chunk of the beach missing 25 yrds away on the right and 50 to our left. Also, our boat was hanging over the ledge of sand that once supported it.
At any rate, we started putting sticks in the sand to mark beach loss and moved the kayak to higher ground. Again Mom and I went agate hunting to pass the time. We even went as far as to run into the crashing waves with a bowl and cup to catch the rocks that were being stirred. "Panning for agates" turned out to be less lucrative than planned. We went to sleep early with high hopes of putting in miles tomorrow.
Trip: 455.16 mi
Last night the waves were supposed to lay down to 1-3 ft. I do not think that happened at all! We woke up to a good chunk of the beach missing 25 yrds away on the right and 50 to our left. Also, our boat was hanging over the ledge of sand that once supported it.
At any rate, we started putting sticks in the sand to mark beach loss and moved the kayak to higher ground. Again Mom and I went agate hunting to pass the time. We even went as far as to run into the crashing waves with a bowl and cup to catch the rocks that were being stirred. "Panning for agates" turned out to be less lucrative than planned. We went to sleep early with high hopes of putting in miles tomorrow.
Monday, July 19, 2010
Day 32- July 15, 2010
Today: 0.0 mi
Trip: 455.16 mi
Waking to the sound of crashing waves is never comforting. Add to that frantic treetops and a blowing tent and we had a wind day. Bummer.
After sleeping in and drinking coffee we decided to amuse ourselves by looking for rocks. As we walked the beach, the waves continued to build to the prijected 5-7 ft by lunchtime. After lunch and nap we walked in the other direction looking for cell service. Not being very successful we called it an early, windy night.
Trip: 455.16 mi
Waking to the sound of crashing waves is never comforting. Add to that frantic treetops and a blowing tent and we had a wind day. Bummer.
After sleeping in and drinking coffee we decided to amuse ourselves by looking for rocks. As we walked the beach, the waves continued to build to the prijected 5-7 ft by lunchtime. After lunch and nap we walked in the other direction looking for cell service. Not being very successful we called it an early, windy night.
Day 31- July 14, 2010
Today: 7.39
Trip: 455.16
Our little beach haven was much calmer in the morning when we packed our camp. We knew it would not last long, however. The forcast was for heavy storms to begin as early as 1 pm so we packed up quick and headed out. It was nice to paddle near the sandstone cliffs without the risk of being trashed.
Around the bend came the little town of Freda, another smoke stack, abandoned factory, and a little bit of stamp sand. Our headwinds increased as we passed Freda but it was the clouds of impending doom that convinced us to tuck into a cove on the North end of Rockhouse Point.
Turning on the weather radio, our fears were confirmed. A tornado watch was well in effect along with a special marine statement warning boaters of oncoming storms. It started storming at 1:30 pm and we were trapped in our tent until 9 pm when the weather finally broke. We were able to catch a quick sunset before the next storm rolled in. Let's just say we caught up on some sleep.
Trip: 455.16
Our little beach haven was much calmer in the morning when we packed our camp. We knew it would not last long, however. The forcast was for heavy storms to begin as early as 1 pm so we packed up quick and headed out. It was nice to paddle near the sandstone cliffs without the risk of being trashed.
Around the bend came the little town of Freda, another smoke stack, abandoned factory, and a little bit of stamp sand. Our headwinds increased as we passed Freda but it was the clouds of impending doom that convinced us to tuck into a cove on the North end of Rockhouse Point.
Turning on the weather radio, our fears were confirmed. A tornado watch was well in effect along with a special marine statement warning boaters of oncoming storms. It started storming at 1:30 pm and we were trapped in our tent until 9 pm when the weather finally broke. We were able to catch a quick sunset before the next storm rolled in. Let's just say we caught up on some sleep.
Day 30-July 13, 2010
Today: 23 mi
Trip: 447.77
Sadly our cute cobble beach turned into party central at night. Firecrackers, drinking, and loud music kept us up past 3 am. By the time we were up at 6 am packing, the quiet rock hunters were back reclaiming thief beach.
Heading off we had another fun day of following seas. The shore was a little rocky but had some good sand beaches too. We lunched at the upper entrance to the Portage River and were a little bummed that we too early to see the Ranger returning from Isle Royale.
Paddling along, the shore went from sand to rock and back to sand. It was not long before we could see the smoke stack at Freda and the sandstone cliffs of Redridge. There were some small waterfalls and plenty of sea caves talking to us as the swells slammed into them. No sooner had we passed the stack at redridge did we really begin to feel the effects of the waves. At one point I turned around just in time to see a wave crash on the deck just behind mom. Luckily there was a small sand beach tucked between two points of cliffs and we decided to land for the night. It was strange to see waves building at 5 pm and even stranger that they did not lay down until past 7. I guess Lake Superior gave us too much of a good thing, but at least we got some good miles in.
Trip: 447.77
Sadly our cute cobble beach turned into party central at night. Firecrackers, drinking, and loud music kept us up past 3 am. By the time we were up at 6 am packing, the quiet rock hunters were back reclaiming thief beach.
Heading off we had another fun day of following seas. The shore was a little rocky but had some good sand beaches too. We lunched at the upper entrance to the Portage River and were a little bummed that we too early to see the Ranger returning from Isle Royale.
Paddling along, the shore went from sand to rock and back to sand. It was not long before we could see the smoke stack at Freda and the sandstone cliffs of Redridge. There were some small waterfalls and plenty of sea caves talking to us as the swells slammed into them. No sooner had we passed the stack at redridge did we really begin to feel the effects of the waves. At one point I turned around just in time to see a wave crash on the deck just behind mom. Luckily there was a small sand beach tucked between two points of cliffs and we decided to land for the night. It was strange to see waves building at 5 pm and even stranger that they did not lay down until past 7. I guess Lake Superior gave us too much of a good thing, but at least we got some good miles in.
Sunday, July 18, 2010
Day 29-July 12, 2010
Today: 32.2 mi
Trip: 424.77
We had a slight audience of motel guests and passengers on the Isle Royale Queen when packing up this morning. We bid farewell to Copper Harbor and continued our journey down the Keweenaw. The shore was very rocky but had a row of emerging rocks just offshore so we were pretty protected in our corridor. There were many more houses than expected which made breaks more difficult but things were going well.
I had my trusty Keweenaw Water Trail map on my deck but grew suprisingly aware of the inacuracy it contained. I will hit the highlights but spare the details of my frustrating day with the map. Let's just be happy that at least Keweenaw was spelled correctly.
We passed a place called Devil's Washtub and a rock arch. I would love to describe them both to you, but alas the water trail map failed to tell us where these features might be. We were in the area at least.
Lunch at Eagle Harbor was a treat. We had small following seas which just pushed us into the harbor past a beautiful lighthouse (not on the water trail map) onto a long sandy beach. Afterwards we came on to Great Sand Bay (sandy shore) and then to Eagle River.
From this point on we tried to use the water trail map to find other useless information like a campground. We never found one and the other had a steep rock bank instead of the described sandy shore. We continued on past steep cobble beaches until we came to Gratiot River. There a less steep cobble beach greated us. We put up camp amongst a few families hunting rocks and a couple ORV's.
Trip: 424.77
We had a slight audience of motel guests and passengers on the Isle Royale Queen when packing up this morning. We bid farewell to Copper Harbor and continued our journey down the Keweenaw. The shore was very rocky but had a row of emerging rocks just offshore so we were pretty protected in our corridor. There were many more houses than expected which made breaks more difficult but things were going well.
I had my trusty Keweenaw Water Trail map on my deck but grew suprisingly aware of the inacuracy it contained. I will hit the highlights but spare the details of my frustrating day with the map. Let's just be happy that at least Keweenaw was spelled correctly.
We passed a place called Devil's Washtub and a rock arch. I would love to describe them both to you, but alas the water trail map failed to tell us where these features might be. We were in the area at least.
Lunch at Eagle Harbor was a treat. We had small following seas which just pushed us into the harbor past a beautiful lighthouse (not on the water trail map) onto a long sandy beach. Afterwards we came on to Great Sand Bay (sandy shore) and then to Eagle River.
From this point on we tried to use the water trail map to find other useless information like a campground. We never found one and the other had a steep rock bank instead of the described sandy shore. We continued on past steep cobble beaches until we came to Gratiot River. There a less steep cobble beach greated us. We put up camp amongst a few families hunting rocks and a couple ORV's.
Saturday, July 17, 2010
Day 28-July 11, 2010
Today: 0.0 mi
Trip: 392.57
Charming as Copper Harbor is, it was the rain, thunder and lightning that once again told us to take a day off. We rolled out of our cool hotel room down to The Pines for a breakfast that couldn't be beat, bottomless coffee and, oddly enough, Internet.
From there we took the long way home through local shops and attractions. Most of the rest if the day was spent on laundry and movies. The Mariner was our choice location for both lunch and dinner. All in all it was an unproductive, restful day. Just what we needed.
Trip: 392.57
Charming as Copper Harbor is, it was the rain, thunder and lightning that once again told us to take a day off. We rolled out of our cool hotel room down to The Pines for a breakfast that couldn't be beat, bottomless coffee and, oddly enough, Internet.
From there we took the long way home through local shops and attractions. Most of the rest if the day was spent on laundry and movies. The Mariner was our choice location for both lunch and dinner. All in all it was an unproductive, restful day. Just what we needed.
Sunday, July 11, 2010
Day 27-July 10, 2010
Waking up at the tip of the Keweenaw was spectacular to say the least. Lazily we broke camp and searched for agates. Winds were calm as we launched and we were planning a short paddle to Copper Harbor for a shower. We passed an old rocket launch site for NASA. It was back in the woods and not too stunning but interesting indeed. The shoreline transitioned to more rock and slightly less cobble beach bailouts as we made the turn westward. Our freighter friends are back and we should be seeing them all the way into Duluth.
Our ongoing joke is not if, but when we will encounter our daily headwind. Today it happened just 5 miles from our destination. Waves kicked up to 3 rooters in less than 30 min with sustained winds at 15 with gusts to 20. Let's just say that we had to work a bit to get to Copper Harbor. A warm shower, coffee, and homemade pie from The Pines was the best reward. We returned later for a brat and beer to complete our day and spent the night watching movies. We were able to visit Keweenaw Adventure Co. To get our watertrail maps. We also splurged on a rock book to better identify and seek out those rare agates. Rock junkies, that is what we have become.
Our ongoing joke is not if, but when we will encounter our daily headwind. Today it happened just 5 miles from our destination. Waves kicked up to 3 rooters in less than 30 min with sustained winds at 15 with gusts to 20. Let's just say that we had to work a bit to get to Copper Harbor. A warm shower, coffee, and homemade pie from The Pines was the best reward. We returned later for a brat and beer to complete our day and spent the night watching movies. We were able to visit Keweenaw Adventure Co. To get our watertrail maps. We also splurged on a rock book to better identify and seek out those rare agates. Rock junkies, that is what we have become.
Saturday, July 10, 2010
Day 26-July 9, 2010
Today we round the Keweenaw...or not. We started out with a significant tailwind that was greatly appreciated. We made it to the Montreal River Falls in no time. While I had it in my head that we would be following a coastline similar to that on Isle Royale, that was not the case. There were many small and some not so small cobblestone beaches tucked into the rocky shore. We stopped to play in the falls but continued on nonetheless.
Imagine my suprise when we found a large sand beach after Keystone Point. It was here we had lunch before rounding Keweenaw Point. We were expecting to encounter a headwind as we rounded the point so making the turn was bittersweet.
With Manitou Island on our right, an agate beach on our left and 11 miles of whitecap headwind ahead, we made the tough call. Camping at the tip of the Keweenaw was rough but someone has to do it. We even found a few agates along the way. Perhaps tomorrow we will make it to Copper Harbor.
Imagine my suprise when we found a large sand beach after Keystone Point. It was here we had lunch before rounding Keweenaw Point. We were expecting to encounter a headwind as we rounded the point so making the turn was bittersweet.
With Manitou Island on our right, an agate beach on our left and 11 miles of whitecap headwind ahead, we made the tough call. Camping at the tip of the Keweenaw was rough but someone has to do it. We even found a few agates along the way. Perhaps tomorrow we will make it to Copper Harbor.
Day 25-July 8, 2010
Let me just state the obvious here. Black sand gets very hot in the sun. We packed up our soaking wet gear not a moment too soon. We were pulling out just as the sun started cooking our beach home.
We passed an old factory stack in Gay and the black sand gave way to modest cliffs interspersed with sandy beaches. We stopped at this quaint little roadside park for lunch. It was after eating we noticed the name...Brunette Park. How Mom was allowed to stay I do not know.
The paddle into Bete de Gris Bay was peacefull. There were many carp in the shallows and a lazy scenic byway along the shore. Once we rounded Point Isabelle we had yet another headwind. No bother.
There was a beautiful sand beach all along the bottom of the bay framed in the mountains of the Keweenaw. We ended up camping on the beach which was the quietest place we have been thus far. I am certain tonight will be great for sleeping.
We passed an old factory stack in Gay and the black sand gave way to modest cliffs interspersed with sandy beaches. We stopped at this quaint little roadside park for lunch. It was after eating we noticed the name...Brunette Park. How Mom was allowed to stay I do not know.
The paddle into Bete de Gris Bay was peacefull. There were many carp in the shallows and a lazy scenic byway along the shore. Once we rounded Point Isabelle we had yet another headwind. No bother.
There was a beautiful sand beach all along the bottom of the bay framed in the mountains of the Keweenaw. We ended up camping on the beach which was the quietest place we have been thus far. I am certain tonight will be great for sleeping.
Day 24-July 7, 2010
It was a beautiful morning. The sun was shining, the winds were calm and the neighbor's dog came by to play. After an ambitious game of fetch we ventured onto the water and continued our trek up the Keweenaw. All day we were in the presence of regal sandstone cliffs that were only broken by a few quaint little beaches. I made a particularly fantastic find while running up the beach for a pit stop...an enormous white agate. My first official one and the largest in our collection.
As is the case in Lake Superior, the winds changed and we found ouselves in a headwind coming into Grand Traverse Bay. We were more shocked to find inside this bay a most peculiar scene. South if the harbor breakwall, the sand was yellow and full of people as is expected. The north end, however, was pure black sand with sharply steep banks. This sand extended well north of the bay around to Gay. As we rounded this point, storms were well on their way and we needed to land. We were able to pick out a relatively flat bank to run the boat up on. The nearest treeline was a good quarter mile away so we made due with pitching out tent between large dunes if black sand. As we ate our dinner we watched bolts of lightning in the distance. It started to rain as we retreated inside our tent for the night.
As is the case in Lake Superior, the winds changed and we found ouselves in a headwind coming into Grand Traverse Bay. We were more shocked to find inside this bay a most peculiar scene. South if the harbor breakwall, the sand was yellow and full of people as is expected. The north end, however, was pure black sand with sharply steep banks. This sand extended well north of the bay around to Gay. As we rounded this point, storms were well on their way and we needed to land. We were able to pick out a relatively flat bank to run the boat up on. The nearest treeline was a good quarter mile away so we made due with pitching out tent between large dunes if black sand. As we ate our dinner we watched bolts of lightning in the distance. It started to rain as we retreated inside our tent for the night.
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
Tuesday, July 6, 2010
Day 23-July 6, 2010
At 6 this morning the rain was coming down pretty good. Mom peeked her head out. With the low rain clouds and the heavy fog it was pretty much pea soup. If course we got up and onto the water...after we rolled back into our sleeping bags for another hour or so. It took a lot of coffee and chocolate but we eventually packed up and headed into Baraga for our mail drop. The walk was not terribly far but it was not insignificant either. After carting our next few weeks of food back to the kayak we had worked up a bit of an appetite. The Ojibwa BP had pop, chips, and dollar cheeseburgers. It was a lunch fit for queens.
All of our new food did fit in the boat and we did start our trek up the beautiful Keweenaw Peninsula. Copper Country through and through. We paddled along stunning black sand beaches and towering salmon colored sandstone cliffs. Lake Superior was playing nice and we were able to hammer out 16.5 miles even with our late start. We set up camp on a beach just north of the Portage River lower entry near the town of Jacobsville. According to the locals, the salmon colored Jacobsville Sandstone has benn used in many building around the country. Many of the local churches, prominant buildings in Ohio and New York all showcase this local treasure...who knew?
All of our new food did fit in the boat and we did start our trek up the beautiful Keweenaw Peninsula. Copper Country through and through. We paddled along stunning black sand beaches and towering salmon colored sandstone cliffs. Lake Superior was playing nice and we were able to hammer out 16.5 miles even with our late start. We set up camp on a beach just north of the Portage River lower entry near the town of Jacobsville. According to the locals, the salmon colored Jacobsville Sandstone has benn used in many building around the country. Many of the local churches, prominant buildings in Ohio and New York all showcase this local treasure...who knew?
Monday, July 5, 2010
Day 22-July 5, 2010
Sleeping in for a second day in a row was a treat. Again we ventured to The Hilltop for an unbeatable breakfast. We then packed up and headed back to 2nd Sand Beach to start again in our kayak. Around noon we bid Mike, Peggy, and her husband Mark farewell and made our way out on the calm waters of Superior.
Mom and I were very warm seeing as how it was a breezeless afternoon. We stopped for a while to look at the old Ford town of Pequaming and paddle south toward Baraga. Suddenly we stared feeling random ice cold winds gusts in shirt bursts almost as if walking in front of an open freezer. It was nice shock when the fog started rolling in.
Coming into L'anse we decided to make the 2 mike crossing into Baraga. Just about the time we were halfway across, the fog rolled in a little heavier so we lost the shore in both directions. Occasionally we could still see the emerging highlands in the distance above the fog. Did I mention it was a terribly cold fog? So cold in fact that my hands and ears were icicles by the time we were through.
When we did reach the shores of Baraga, the skies were sunny and temperature warm. It did not last long though. Steady heavy rain has now set in at the Ojibwa RV Park where we call home.
At least today we have reached yet another milestone...the 300 mile mark!! Yee haw!! Tomorrow, we shall make our way up the keweenaw.
Mom and I were very warm seeing as how it was a breezeless afternoon. We stopped for a while to look at the old Ford town of Pequaming and paddle south toward Baraga. Suddenly we stared feeling random ice cold winds gusts in shirt bursts almost as if walking in front of an open freezer. It was nice shock when the fog started rolling in.
Coming into L'anse we decided to make the 2 mike crossing into Baraga. Just about the time we were halfway across, the fog rolled in a little heavier so we lost the shore in both directions. Occasionally we could still see the emerging highlands in the distance above the fog. Did I mention it was a terribly cold fog? So cold in fact that my hands and ears were icicles by the time we were through.
When we did reach the shores of Baraga, the skies were sunny and temperature warm. It did not last long though. Steady heavy rain has now set in at the Ojibwa RV Park where we call home.
At least today we have reached yet another milestone...the 300 mile mark!! Yee haw!! Tomorrow, we shall make our way up the keweenaw.
Day 21-July 4, 2010
Happy fourth of July!!!
The winds were cranking again and there was rain in the air. While most folks were busy trying to get outside, we were quite content sleeping in and staying in the hotel another night. We did venture out to eat once in a while...The Hilltop with their famous sweet rolls and bittomless was too hard to pass up. We also did laundry and I watched a few movies. All in all not much paddling to be had but plenty of rest and relaxation.
Staying awake long enough to view the fireworks was not on our agenda but I did wake up when I heard the grand finale.
The winds were cranking again and there was rain in the air. While most folks were busy trying to get outside, we were quite content sleeping in and staying in the hotel another night. We did venture out to eat once in a while...The Hilltop with their famous sweet rolls and bittomless was too hard to pass up. We also did laundry and I watched a few movies. All in all not much paddling to be had but plenty of rest and relaxation.
Staying awake long enough to view the fireworks was not on our agenda but I did wake up when I heard the grand finale.
Day 20-July 3, 2010
As the case may be, the flies that we left on the outside of the tent were eagerly awaiting our return. We packed up camp in record time, passed on the morning coffee and hit the water. The weather called for a 15-25 mph headwind and we didn't expect to go far. The shore was lined with small rocks cliffs making break points few and fat between. Paddling around cliffs for as many days as we have this far, I tend to forget the looming potential for things to fall. Imagine my surprise when I actually witnessed a tree fall in from a 15 foot cliff some 100 yrds ahead of me. It was unnerving to say the least.
So we continued to fight the wind for a long 12 miles. The gusts were so powerful the kayak practically moved in reverse. Tired and hungry we hit the north beach that connects Pequaming to the mainland. It didn't take much to figure out that we were going to treat ourselves to a hotel in nearby L'anse for the night. Mike would come pick us up while a nice landowner named Peggy agreed to let us keep the boat on her beach.
Mom and I both enjoyed our showers and a full belly from a local bar. Sleeping in a real bed was very nice too. I think tonight I am going to watch a movie...a luxury long time coming.
So we continued to fight the wind for a long 12 miles. The gusts were so powerful the kayak practically moved in reverse. Tired and hungry we hit the north beach that connects Pequaming to the mainland. It didn't take much to figure out that we were going to treat ourselves to a hotel in nearby L'anse for the night. Mike would come pick us up while a nice landowner named Peggy agreed to let us keep the boat on her beach.
Mom and I both enjoyed our showers and a full belly from a local bar. Sleeping in a real bed was very nice too. I think tonight I am going to watch a movie...a luxury long time coming.
Day 19-July 2, 2010
The seemingly sleepy little town of Big Bay was nothing if not creepy. While by day it seemed desserted (we only saw 4 people while walking around) things definately changed by night (vampires perhaps?). Our night was filled with screeching tires, four wheelers, incesant screaming and fireworks. Mom and I both were awake just waiting to be discovered. Fortunately we were left alone and the mayhem died down just before dawn. From the solitude we were then able to hear the coyotes in the nearby woods. As we packed up and paddled away the town was once again as still as the morning water upon which we paddled.
Rounding the point out of Big Bay were in the shadow of beautiful rock cliffs. They soon gave way to a long stretch of sand beach framed by the Huron Mountains. Our morning coffee demanded a quick pit stop. We saw the most peculiar deer dancing around the beach. It was not until we landed did we realize why. Apparently July 2 was national stable fly hatch out day (sadly this holiday did not make it on my calendar). From that beach on we were in constant battle with the flies. They covered the backs of our lifejackets and made stopping for breaks a bear. We met two other kayakers who were in the same plight and we did not feel quite so singled out.
Paddling along the Huron Mountain Club property we were shocked to see people however not so when they did not exchange hellos. The cabins along the shore were historic mansions in their own right. The dated architecture was apparent and often stood apart from the newer renovations. Of course there were modern mansions as well which looked out of place as only they can do.
After 20 miles it so we were out of the Huron Mountain Club and back to civilization. The upcoming holiday weekend brought many people to the beaches of the Huron River. We continued on into Abbaye Bay and made the 2 mile crossing to Abbaye Peninsula. We rounded the point into the Keweenae Bay and made camp on the shore. Our day total was just over 30 miles and we were a touch tired.
Breaking camp proved to be more difficult than we intended. Apparently throughout the day the flies were busy hatching. I am not joking when I say that at any given moment we each had at least 50 flies on us. Groups were falling off of us in ping pong ball sized clumps. We struggled to eat our dinner without injesting flies or suffering a nasty bite. We quickly finished our chores and retreated to the tent. From there an event dubbed "the July 2nd fly massacre" started. Fly carnage was everywhere but a small price to pay for a moment of solitude. We were not brave enough to venture out for the sunset...I am sure it was beautiful.
Rounding the point out of Big Bay were in the shadow of beautiful rock cliffs. They soon gave way to a long stretch of sand beach framed by the Huron Mountains. Our morning coffee demanded a quick pit stop. We saw the most peculiar deer dancing around the beach. It was not until we landed did we realize why. Apparently July 2 was national stable fly hatch out day (sadly this holiday did not make it on my calendar). From that beach on we were in constant battle with the flies. They covered the backs of our lifejackets and made stopping for breaks a bear. We met two other kayakers who were in the same plight and we did not feel quite so singled out.
Paddling along the Huron Mountain Club property we were shocked to see people however not so when they did not exchange hellos. The cabins along the shore were historic mansions in their own right. The dated architecture was apparent and often stood apart from the newer renovations. Of course there were modern mansions as well which looked out of place as only they can do.
After 20 miles it so we were out of the Huron Mountain Club and back to civilization. The upcoming holiday weekend brought many people to the beaches of the Huron River. We continued on into Abbaye Bay and made the 2 mile crossing to Abbaye Peninsula. We rounded the point into the Keweenae Bay and made camp on the shore. Our day total was just over 30 miles and we were a touch tired.
Breaking camp proved to be more difficult than we intended. Apparently throughout the day the flies were busy hatching. I am not joking when I say that at any given moment we each had at least 50 flies on us. Groups were falling off of us in ping pong ball sized clumps. We struggled to eat our dinner without injesting flies or suffering a nasty bite. We quickly finished our chores and retreated to the tent. From there an event dubbed "the July 2nd fly massacre" started. Fly carnage was everywhere but a small price to pay for a moment of solitude. We were not brave enough to venture out for the sunset...I am sure it was beautiful.
Thursday, July 1, 2010
Day 18- July 1, 2010
Happy July!!! I cannot belive it is here already. The weather called for sunny and favorable south winds. We made it around Little Presque Isle early this morning and continued our trek north. Of course you can see from the pics that we did have a little fun before take-off. Having nighttime temps in the high 30s will do that to people. Soon enough we rounded Thoneys Point and came upon a huge mansion at the tip of Garlic Point. Next we passed Saux Head Point and Granite Point. We stopped for lunch somewhere between Granite Point and Yellow Dog Point. While having lunch, the skies began to cloud over and started to look like rain. Being good paddlers we listened to the forcast again only this time they started calling for. A slight chance of rain in the extreme western upper Michigan. Still good.
Coming around Yellow Dog Point, we began to take note of a developing rain storm a few miles out. It was definately going to miss us but the clouds were amazing. Then I noticed some white caps...then a few more, and a few more. We braced as the wind picked up from behind us and created small steep one footers pushed us toward the steep cliffs ahead. Just about the time we were thinking we better hit the sand beach to our south...the wind and waves disappeared as quickly as they came.
Being as how we were close to Big Bay and it was still early, we paddled along. Coming around Big Bay Lighthouse, we could again see rain forming over the bay. This time we tucked in near the marina with intentions to leave once it let up. Well, one little rain shower led to another which led to another. Looking at the map we would have to trek at least 13 miles before being able to land. The Huron Mountain Club owned much of the shoreline and do not respond well to visitors. Since we had already put in 23.6 miles and it was coming on 4 pm we decided to set up shop here.
We set up our tent on the beach, ate with the sound of pitter patter of raindrops.
As the case may be, we are glad that we can rely on the forcast...right. Lake Superior makes her own weather. Perhaps she will play even nicer tomorrow.
Coming around Yellow Dog Point, we began to take note of a developing rain storm a few miles out. It was definately going to miss us but the clouds were amazing. Then I noticed some white caps...then a few more, and a few more. We braced as the wind picked up from behind us and created small steep one footers pushed us toward the steep cliffs ahead. Just about the time we were thinking we better hit the sand beach to our south...the wind and waves disappeared as quickly as they came.
Being as how we were close to Big Bay and it was still early, we paddled along. Coming around Big Bay Lighthouse, we could again see rain forming over the bay. This time we tucked in near the marina with intentions to leave once it let up. Well, one little rain shower led to another which led to another. Looking at the map we would have to trek at least 13 miles before being able to land. The Huron Mountain Club owned much of the shoreline and do not respond well to visitors. Since we had already put in 23.6 miles and it was coming on 4 pm we decided to set up shop here.
We set up our tent on the beach, ate with the sound of pitter patter of raindrops.
As the case may be, we are glad that we can rely on the forcast...right. Lake Superior makes her own weather. Perhaps she will play even nicer tomorrow.
Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Day 17- June 30, 2010
We moved. We did not move far, nor fast, but we moved. The forecast called for Northwest winds at 5-15 mph. We were prepared for the wind and the 1-2 ft waves coming around Presque Isle. Well rested and ambitious we were ready. It was the residual 2-4 ft swells that threw us for a loop. Rounding the northern most tip if the island put us in the direct path of both wind and waves. The felt more like 15 sustained and the swells were large and then some with the aformentioned 1-2 ft topping. We must have been quite the spectacle. The nose of The Beast was either soaring high or burried in the next wave. I swear there were times I was looking up at the next wave crest. It was not my favorite way to start a morning.
After passing the tip of Presque Isle we set a ferry angle to keep the waves at our bow as we headed over Partridge Island. We sought shelter in a small bay on the southeast side of the island. From there we took a well deserved rest and looked for rocks on the beach.
Since at no time did we feel unstable in The Beast and we would have partial shelter from idland and shore, we headed out again. This time waves bouncing off the rock cliffs made for some very funny water. Mom and I both were laughing at the splashes and movements of the boat beneath us. We took another break at Wetmore Landing just north of Sugarloaf Mountain. Eventually we proceeded onward to Little Presque Isle. The winds out of the north were showing no signs of stopping. Mom and I more than had our fill for the day so we ultimately decided to seek refuge on the south side of the peninsula for the evening.
As I write this now I to believe the lake has finally decided to lay down. The south winds forcasted for tomorrow will be appreciated.
After passing the tip of Presque Isle we set a ferry angle to keep the waves at our bow as we headed over Partridge Island. We sought shelter in a small bay on the southeast side of the island. From there we took a well deserved rest and looked for rocks on the beach.
Since at no time did we feel unstable in The Beast and we would have partial shelter from idland and shore, we headed out again. This time waves bouncing off the rock cliffs made for some very funny water. Mom and I both were laughing at the splashes and movements of the boat beneath us. We took another break at Wetmore Landing just north of Sugarloaf Mountain. Eventually we proceeded onward to Little Presque Isle. The winds out of the north were showing no signs of stopping. Mom and I more than had our fill for the day so we ultimately decided to seek refuge on the south side of the peninsula for the evening.
As I write this now I to believe the lake has finally decided to lay down. The south winds forcasted for tomorrow will be appreciated.
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Day 16- June 29, 2010
This morning was....how you say...chilly. It bottomed out somewhere in the 40s but the sun was intense on our tent as we made our coffee. The waves were already white-capped looking out our window and water was splashing over the breakwall. There was no question about it...today was gonna be another wind day. Shortly after making our coffee one if Marquette's finest came by again to tell us that we may have to move. When he looked at our boat and the whitecaps he said he would just call our landing an emergency which should make it okay.
With our coffee we had leftover cudighis and chocolate. From there we did some laundry, yoga on the beach, and strolled over to some local art galleries. Afterwards we hit Middle Bay Beach to scout waves and treated ourselves to ice cream on the way home. Amaretto mackinaw island fudge ice cream to be exact.
Try as we might, productivity was not on the agenda. I read a book and mom hunted for agates. When dinner approached it only seemed natural to have pizza delivered. We has our friend Patty and her mother stop by for a visit and an offer to go into town. Instead we swapped Lake Superior and camping stories. Hopefully if the timing works, we shall meet them again on the water real soon. If the stories and company wasn't enough, Patty left us with some wonderful fresh strawberries. Very tasty.
After saying farewell to John the very kind Harbor Master, we pretty much organized ourselves in preparation for taking off tomorrow. It's shaping up to be another cold night but hopefully, weather permitting, we will be back in the saddle again.
With our coffee we had leftover cudighis and chocolate. From there we did some laundry, yoga on the beach, and strolled over to some local art galleries. Afterwards we hit Middle Bay Beach to scout waves and treated ourselves to ice cream on the way home. Amaretto mackinaw island fudge ice cream to be exact.
Try as we might, productivity was not on the agenda. I read a book and mom hunted for agates. When dinner approached it only seemed natural to have pizza delivered. We has our friend Patty and her mother stop by for a visit and an offer to go into town. Instead we swapped Lake Superior and camping stories. Hopefully if the timing works, we shall meet them again on the water real soon. If the stories and company wasn't enough, Patty left us with some wonderful fresh strawberries. Very tasty.
After saying farewell to John the very kind Harbor Master, we pretty much organized ourselves in preparation for taking off tomorrow. It's shaping up to be another cold night but hopefully, weather permitting, we will be back in the saddle again.
Monday, June 28, 2010
June 28, 2010
Urgh! We had a visit from one of Marquette's finest around 11 pm yesterday. We kindly explained that we had permission from the Harbormaster to be here and had a slip
Key to prove our case. To ease our mind he said that he may or may not be back later to kick us out of out campsite so as you can imagine...we did not sleep very well. That coupled with the unloading freighter until the wee hours of the morning pretty much made it worse. Even the kind horn blowing by the freighter before he left port didn't help. No bother as the case may be.
As much as we tried...we failed to change the weather. The wind picked up about 3 am and continued to blow 10-20 mph. Along with the stiff northwest wind came 5-7 ft waves. Needless to say, we took the day off. Our lovely friend from the harbor showed us a great place to wave watch. From there we hiked around Presque Isle and watched the waves crash into the cliffs. For dinner we took a taxi into Marquette. First we visited the local Downwind Outfitters for fuel and to replace my two sporks, both of which met their tragic ending this week. One had an unfortunate encounter with peanut butter, the other was abandoned somewhere on the cliffs of Presque Isle. Hopefully my new sporks will serve me well. I shall always remember my firsts. Anyway, dinner was fantastic at Vangos. See if you can guess what we ate... I posted a pic as a hint.
After dinner we walked back to our tent to snuggle in for a cold night. The sunset was nice but the encroaching night is gonna bottom out in the 40s. Brrr.
As I leave you tonight, the sound of bagpipes are playing from a wedding nearby. There are no ships at the ore docks and as long as the police don't kick us out, it should be a great night.
Key to prove our case. To ease our mind he said that he may or may not be back later to kick us out of out campsite so as you can imagine...we did not sleep very well. That coupled with the unloading freighter until the wee hours of the morning pretty much made it worse. Even the kind horn blowing by the freighter before he left port didn't help. No bother as the case may be.
As much as we tried...we failed to change the weather. The wind picked up about 3 am and continued to blow 10-20 mph. Along with the stiff northwest wind came 5-7 ft waves. Needless to say, we took the day off. Our lovely friend from the harbor showed us a great place to wave watch. From there we hiked around Presque Isle and watched the waves crash into the cliffs. For dinner we took a taxi into Marquette. First we visited the local Downwind Outfitters for fuel and to replace my two sporks, both of which met their tragic ending this week. One had an unfortunate encounter with peanut butter, the other was abandoned somewhere on the cliffs of Presque Isle. Hopefully my new sporks will serve me well. I shall always remember my firsts. Anyway, dinner was fantastic at Vangos. See if you can guess what we ate... I posted a pic as a hint.
After dinner we walked back to our tent to snuggle in for a cold night. The sunset was nice but the encroaching night is gonna bottom out in the 40s. Brrr.
As I leave you tonight, the sound of bagpipes are playing from a wedding nearby. There are no ships at the ore docks and as long as the police don't kick us out, it should be a great night.
June 27, 2010
Well, it was no suprise that we awoke to more rain and thunder. I can't remember off the top of my head but I do belive that our rain days surpass our dry. Being as how there was thunder, lightning and rain, we slept in until it all passed. This put us off at a later time than expected. We stopped just 6 miles down the beach to visit some long lost relatives that happened to be vavationing in Harvey just south of Marquette. As we headed toward our lunch spot at South Beach, our second freighter of the day approached. It docked just a half mile down the beach from where we were. Mom and I both were excited that the fog from yesterday had lifted. Crossing freighter channels with near zero visibility would be less than fun.
After lunch we crossed in front of the docked freighter and went out past the south breakwall. We stopped for photos just off of the Marquette Lighthouse and headed past Picnic Rocks Park. The shoreline was pretty much rock from here on out and we made our way out into the next freighter channel and breakwall. No sooner had we made it out halfway in the crossing when of course threatning clouds appeared. We then made a turn and headed straight for the Presque Isle Marina on the south side of Presque Isle Park. The Harbor Master was so nice. He let us stay the night and gave us a ride into town to get some Itallian food as Casa Cardenia. With full bellies we took a taxi back home and tried to sleep with the sound of the ore docks not far off.
After lunch we crossed in front of the docked freighter and went out past the south breakwall. We stopped for photos just off of the Marquette Lighthouse and headed past Picnic Rocks Park. The shoreline was pretty much rock from here on out and we made our way out into the next freighter channel and breakwall. No sooner had we made it out halfway in the crossing when of course threatning clouds appeared. We then made a turn and headed straight for the Presque Isle Marina on the south side of Presque Isle Park. The Harbor Master was so nice. He let us stay the night and gave us a ride into town to get some Itallian food as Casa Cardenia. With full bellies we took a taxi back home and tried to sleep with the sound of the ore docks not far off.
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