We moved. We did not move far, nor fast, but we moved. The forecast called for Northwest winds at 5-15 mph. We were prepared for the wind and the 1-2 ft waves coming around Presque Isle. Well rested and ambitious we were ready. It was the residual 2-4 ft swells that threw us for a loop. Rounding the northern most tip if the island put us in the direct path of both wind and waves. The felt more like 15 sustained and the swells were large and then some with the aformentioned 1-2 ft topping. We must have been quite the spectacle. The nose of The Beast was either soaring high or burried in the next wave. I swear there were times I was looking up at the next wave crest. It was not my favorite way to start a morning.
After passing the tip of Presque Isle we set a ferry angle to keep the waves at our bow as we headed over Partridge Island. We sought shelter in a small bay on the southeast side of the island. From there we took a well deserved rest and looked for rocks on the beach.
Since at no time did we feel unstable in The Beast and we would have partial shelter from idland and shore, we headed out again. This time waves bouncing off the rock cliffs made for some very funny water. Mom and I both were laughing at the splashes and movements of the boat beneath us. We took another break at Wetmore Landing just north of Sugarloaf Mountain. Eventually we proceeded onward to Little Presque Isle. The winds out of the north were showing no signs of stopping. Mom and I more than had our fill for the day so we ultimately decided to seek refuge on the south side of the peninsula for the evening.
As I write this now I to believe the lake has finally decided to lay down. The south winds forcasted for tomorrow will be appreciated.
Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Day 16- June 29, 2010
This morning was....how you say...chilly. It bottomed out somewhere in the 40s but the sun was intense on our tent as we made our coffee. The waves were already white-capped looking out our window and water was splashing over the breakwall. There was no question about it...today was gonna be another wind day. Shortly after making our coffee one if Marquette's finest came by again to tell us that we may have to move. When he looked at our boat and the whitecaps he said he would just call our landing an emergency which should make it okay.
With our coffee we had leftover cudighis and chocolate. From there we did some laundry, yoga on the beach, and strolled over to some local art galleries. Afterwards we hit Middle Bay Beach to scout waves and treated ourselves to ice cream on the way home. Amaretto mackinaw island fudge ice cream to be exact.
Try as we might, productivity was not on the agenda. I read a book and mom hunted for agates. When dinner approached it only seemed natural to have pizza delivered. We has our friend Patty and her mother stop by for a visit and an offer to go into town. Instead we swapped Lake Superior and camping stories. Hopefully if the timing works, we shall meet them again on the water real soon. If the stories and company wasn't enough, Patty left us with some wonderful fresh strawberries. Very tasty.
After saying farewell to John the very kind Harbor Master, we pretty much organized ourselves in preparation for taking off tomorrow. It's shaping up to be another cold night but hopefully, weather permitting, we will be back in the saddle again.
With our coffee we had leftover cudighis and chocolate. From there we did some laundry, yoga on the beach, and strolled over to some local art galleries. Afterwards we hit Middle Bay Beach to scout waves and treated ourselves to ice cream on the way home. Amaretto mackinaw island fudge ice cream to be exact.
Try as we might, productivity was not on the agenda. I read a book and mom hunted for agates. When dinner approached it only seemed natural to have pizza delivered. We has our friend Patty and her mother stop by for a visit and an offer to go into town. Instead we swapped Lake Superior and camping stories. Hopefully if the timing works, we shall meet them again on the water real soon. If the stories and company wasn't enough, Patty left us with some wonderful fresh strawberries. Very tasty.
After saying farewell to John the very kind Harbor Master, we pretty much organized ourselves in preparation for taking off tomorrow. It's shaping up to be another cold night but hopefully, weather permitting, we will be back in the saddle again.
Monday, June 28, 2010
June 28, 2010
Urgh! We had a visit from one of Marquette's finest around 11 pm yesterday. We kindly explained that we had permission from the Harbormaster to be here and had a slip
Key to prove our case. To ease our mind he said that he may or may not be back later to kick us out of out campsite so as you can imagine...we did not sleep very well. That coupled with the unloading freighter until the wee hours of the morning pretty much made it worse. Even the kind horn blowing by the freighter before he left port didn't help. No bother as the case may be.
As much as we tried...we failed to change the weather. The wind picked up about 3 am and continued to blow 10-20 mph. Along with the stiff northwest wind came 5-7 ft waves. Needless to say, we took the day off. Our lovely friend from the harbor showed us a great place to wave watch. From there we hiked around Presque Isle and watched the waves crash into the cliffs. For dinner we took a taxi into Marquette. First we visited the local Downwind Outfitters for fuel and to replace my two sporks, both of which met their tragic ending this week. One had an unfortunate encounter with peanut butter, the other was abandoned somewhere on the cliffs of Presque Isle. Hopefully my new sporks will serve me well. I shall always remember my firsts. Anyway, dinner was fantastic at Vangos. See if you can guess what we ate... I posted a pic as a hint.
After dinner we walked back to our tent to snuggle in for a cold night. The sunset was nice but the encroaching night is gonna bottom out in the 40s. Brrr.
As I leave you tonight, the sound of bagpipes are playing from a wedding nearby. There are no ships at the ore docks and as long as the police don't kick us out, it should be a great night.
Key to prove our case. To ease our mind he said that he may or may not be back later to kick us out of out campsite so as you can imagine...we did not sleep very well. That coupled with the unloading freighter until the wee hours of the morning pretty much made it worse. Even the kind horn blowing by the freighter before he left port didn't help. No bother as the case may be.
As much as we tried...we failed to change the weather. The wind picked up about 3 am and continued to blow 10-20 mph. Along with the stiff northwest wind came 5-7 ft waves. Needless to say, we took the day off. Our lovely friend from the harbor showed us a great place to wave watch. From there we hiked around Presque Isle and watched the waves crash into the cliffs. For dinner we took a taxi into Marquette. First we visited the local Downwind Outfitters for fuel and to replace my two sporks, both of which met their tragic ending this week. One had an unfortunate encounter with peanut butter, the other was abandoned somewhere on the cliffs of Presque Isle. Hopefully my new sporks will serve me well. I shall always remember my firsts. Anyway, dinner was fantastic at Vangos. See if you can guess what we ate... I posted a pic as a hint.
After dinner we walked back to our tent to snuggle in for a cold night. The sunset was nice but the encroaching night is gonna bottom out in the 40s. Brrr.
As I leave you tonight, the sound of bagpipes are playing from a wedding nearby. There are no ships at the ore docks and as long as the police don't kick us out, it should be a great night.
June 27, 2010
Well, it was no suprise that we awoke to more rain and thunder. I can't remember off the top of my head but I do belive that our rain days surpass our dry. Being as how there was thunder, lightning and rain, we slept in until it all passed. This put us off at a later time than expected. We stopped just 6 miles down the beach to visit some long lost relatives that happened to be vavationing in Harvey just south of Marquette. As we headed toward our lunch spot at South Beach, our second freighter of the day approached. It docked just a half mile down the beach from where we were. Mom and I both were excited that the fog from yesterday had lifted. Crossing freighter channels with near zero visibility would be less than fun.
After lunch we crossed in front of the docked freighter and went out past the south breakwall. We stopped for photos just off of the Marquette Lighthouse and headed past Picnic Rocks Park. The shoreline was pretty much rock from here on out and we made our way out into the next freighter channel and breakwall. No sooner had we made it out halfway in the crossing when of course threatning clouds appeared. We then made a turn and headed straight for the Presque Isle Marina on the south side of Presque Isle Park. The Harbor Master was so nice. He let us stay the night and gave us a ride into town to get some Itallian food as Casa Cardenia. With full bellies we took a taxi back home and tried to sleep with the sound of the ore docks not far off.
After lunch we crossed in front of the docked freighter and went out past the south breakwall. We stopped for photos just off of the Marquette Lighthouse and headed past Picnic Rocks Park. The shoreline was pretty much rock from here on out and we made our way out into the next freighter channel and breakwall. No sooner had we made it out halfway in the crossing when of course threatning clouds appeared. We then made a turn and headed straight for the Presque Isle Marina on the south side of Presque Isle Park. The Harbor Master was so nice. He let us stay the night and gave us a ride into town to get some Itallian food as Casa Cardenia. With full bellies we took a taxi back home and tried to sleep with the sound of the ore docks not far off.
Saturday, June 26, 2010
June 26, 2010
Strong coffee was needed to drag our butts out in the cold damp morning. The heavy fog that rolled in last night settled and became a permanent resident. The weather forcasters predicted patchy fog to be gone by late morning. It was not until 9 pm today that the fog finally lifted. As we paddled north into Shelter Bay the fog closed in until there was less than 1/8 mile visibility. The sheer rock cliffs coupled with the 2-3 ft incoming waves made kepping within sight of the shore quite the task. As we rounded the last cliff on the tip of Laughing Whitefish Point we could see the long sandy beaches that followed. We took a well deserved lunch break before heading south along the leeward side of the point. We rounded Shot Point next and briefly celebrated the passing of our 200 mile mark for the trip. Now we are set up on the beach thinking that we just might get a sunset...if the fog does not roll back in.
June 25, 2010
Finally moving! We started out with light rain as we headed toward Christmas. Everything cleared as we rounded Au Train Point and into the bay. Rock cliffs subsided to long sandy beaches and we were more than thrilled. Put in a quick 12 miles before stopping for lunch and having a look at the face in the rock. No sooner had we put back in from lunch we started to hear thunder and feel more rain. We pulled out at Brownstone Boat Launch when we no longer felt safe on the water and after waiting for hours (under a bathroom overhand mind you) for the weather to calm...we decided to stay put for the night. Heavy fog rolled in between rains. It is definately going to be a cold damp night.
June 24, 2010
Mother nature must be telling us somthing... Just not sure what it is. We woke up to about a 15 mph wind coming directly from the way we intended to head. That plus a small craft advisory kept us in bed yet another day. I at least took advantage of a hit shower then mom and I headed into town. Carl came to our rescue again and gave us a ride into town. We dined at Subway for lunch, to the Hiawatha Visitors Center, and then off to the grocery store. Afterwards we treated ourselves to coffee and ice cream at the Falling Rock Cafe. It was absolutly wonderful. Lastly we had dinner at The Dogpatch and then back to the campground for some sleep. Our camper neighbors were super nice and very concerned that we did not have a vehicle. We were invited in for wine and great conversation. Hopefully we will be up and going early tomorrow.
Thursday, June 24, 2010
June 23, 2010
As my avid SPOT watchers may notice...we failed to move today. We awoke to dark clouds which soon led to hours of rain, thunder and of course lightning. Taking this as a sure fire way to have a day off, mom and I rolled over in our sleeping bags and hunkered down. After a few naps we made ourselves get busy doing nothing. Ok ok, so we did shower, do laundry and ate wonderful pasties from Muldoons. Carl was so kind to bring them as we made dinner conversation looking over maps for the next few days. All in all it was a super lazy day. Our first zero mile day of the trip. After 9 days straight paddling, we deserved and welcomed the break.
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
June 22, 2010
After our late evening, we took our time this morning drinking coffee and drying out from the overnight downpours. With Chapel Rock as our backdrop, we headed out a little after noon to see the most spectacular portions of Pictured Rocks. Before doing so we backtracked 1.5 miles to revisit Spray Falls. She was flowing mightily and made for quite a sight. From there we poked our beast of a kayak in and out of the many sea caves and bays carved out if the sometimes 300 ft rock cliffs. Every color of the rainbow appeared along our journey. Mom was particularly fond of the greens while I stuck to the oranges. We lunched on Miner's beach and then headed on into Munising. Hoping to get a shower but failing to find a hotel with a room we had no choice but to paddle another 4 miles to a campground instead. To our suprise the campground had full service showers and bathrooms. Unfortunately after our 24 mile paddle all we wanted to do was sleep. Carl, the local outfitter in town and friend of ours was so kind as to bring us some ice cream to send us off to bed with.
June 21, 2010
Sunrise in the bay was even more spectacular than the sunset. The view from the Beach Park Hotel allowed us to enjoy the sights from the room. We headed off to a nice big breakfast at the West Bay Diner. As fate would have it...our third wheel was sitting in the same diner! We had no idea we were in the same town but alas we were able to speak our peace. Closure before breakfast is always appreciated.
At any rate, breakfast was fantastic and we were able to secure out Pictured Rocks backcountry permit before our friends arrived. My Aunt Barbie, Bill, George, and Mark were all up paddling in the area and came by to wish us well. It was great seeing familiar faces and hopefully we will see them on a later portion of our trip.
We left Grand Marais around noon and headed out toward Grand Sable Dunes. From there we hit the rocky shores if Au Sable Lighthouse. We stopped as Hurricane River for lunch. Mom and I both had a very creepy feeling about the place and we did not stay long at all.
We paddled down Twelve Mile Beach all the way to Chapel Beach to camp. It was a 28 mile day and we did not arrive until late. All food went up the bare pole...no wine and chocolate tonight.
At any rate, breakfast was fantastic and we were able to secure out Pictured Rocks backcountry permit before our friends arrived. My Aunt Barbie, Bill, George, and Mark were all up paddling in the area and came by to wish us well. It was great seeing familiar faces and hopefully we will see them on a later portion of our trip.
We left Grand Marais around noon and headed out toward Grand Sable Dunes. From there we hit the rocky shores if Au Sable Lighthouse. We stopped as Hurricane River for lunch. Mom and I both had a very creepy feeling about the place and we did not stay long at all.
We paddled down Twelve Mile Beach all the way to Chapel Beach to camp. It was a 28 mile day and we did not arrive until late. All food went up the bare pole...no wine and chocolate tonight.
Tuesday, June 22, 2010
June 20, 2010
The paddle into Grand Marais was very rewarding. After our couple of short paddle days it was nice to finally reach a city and get some cell phone service back. We decided to be daring and get a hotel for the night. Seven days without a shower tends to wear on a person. For dinner we went to the Lake Superior Brew Company for some beer and pizza. Sunset was unbeatable on the bay and Lake Superior was glass.
Now some of you may know this already and I hate to make this blog negative, but there are a few things that need to be told side they are a part of our journey. Three days ago when mom and I left Whitefish Harbor, our third wheel paddler opted not to join us. He simply stated that he would "catch up later" (whatever that means). Later that day when he did not catch up despite our many stops we knew that something was not adding up. Given his known character we figured he had bailed on the trip. Upon arriving in Grand Marais today I recieved a text message from our third wheel verifying my suspicion. Our paddle is now back to two. We are a mother and daughter team attemping to circumnavigate Lake Superior by kayak. To say that we are saddened by this would be a lie. Frankly our third wheel was turning out to be more of a liability than intended. To wish him well would be too nice of a guesture. My mother and I spent three long days looking behind us, wondering what happened to our third paddler. To get a mere simple text was simply not enough to what he put us through. Tomorrow we will start fresh... Looking forward to the west.
Now some of you may know this already and I hate to make this blog negative, but there are a few things that need to be told side they are a part of our journey. Three days ago when mom and I left Whitefish Harbor, our third wheel paddler opted not to join us. He simply stated that he would "catch up later" (whatever that means). Later that day when he did not catch up despite our many stops we knew that something was not adding up. Given his known character we figured he had bailed on the trip. Upon arriving in Grand Marais today I recieved a text message from our third wheel verifying my suspicion. Our paddle is now back to two. We are a mother and daughter team attemping to circumnavigate Lake Superior by kayak. To say that we are saddened by this would be a lie. Frankly our third wheel was turning out to be more of a liability than intended. To wish him well would be too nice of a guesture. My mother and I spent three long days looking behind us, wondering what happened to our third paddler. To get a mere simple text was simply not enough to what he put us through. Tomorrow we will start fresh... Looking forward to the west.
June 19, 2010
The storms that were supposed to light up our night thankfully never materialized. Our morning was quiet, calm and otherwise perfect. As we headed out, however, the winds picked up. It was not unexpected but as we realized our 4 mile per hour paddling pace was slowed 2... The paddle to Grand Marais just seemed longer and longer. Ultimately we called it a wind day after 6 miles and spent the rest of the day searching for rocks. A glad of wine and some chocolate again ended our day.
Saturday, June 19, 2010
June 18
Light rain and sore muscles kept us in our tent late with coffee and chocolate. When the weather cleared we headed out west yet again. Saw lots of people today looking for agates. Made it a short paddle day, we went about 10 miles or so. Finally crossed the 100 mile marker for the trip! Yay!
Today we ended up at Muskallonge Lake State Park where we swam and just took a load off.
Today we ended up at Muskallonge Lake State Park where we swam and just took a load off.
June 17
Shortly after posting last night we were startled as a passing freighter blew his fog horn! There was no warning at all...we practically flew out if our tent. But sure enough when we unzipped our tent, we saw that we were socked in with fog. They later closed the St. Mary's river which allowed us to sleep.
In the morning we rounded Whitefish Point and kept on westward. We stopped at Salt Point lighthouse for a while...saw a few deer and lots of fish. As we were heading toward Little Lake Harbor we noticed that while we had been having a cool northeast wind pushing us all day there was a line of waves ahead if us that appeared to be coming straight at us. As we neared the line we kept getting swells off the line which made the water funny. We figured this to be a wind shift line but were in no way prepared when we crossed into it. Instantly we went from a cool north breeze to a straight west wind that was super hot sticky and moist. It was by far one of the strangest weather phenomenon I have seen!
Ultimately we paddled on into this headwind for another 4 miles before camping at the Two Hearted River for the night. It was a long spectacular 30 mile day!
In the morning we rounded Whitefish Point and kept on westward. We stopped at Salt Point lighthouse for a while...saw a few deer and lots of fish. As we were heading toward Little Lake Harbor we noticed that while we had been having a cool northeast wind pushing us all day there was a line of waves ahead if us that appeared to be coming straight at us. As we neared the line we kept getting swells off the line which made the water funny. We figured this to be a wind shift line but were in no way prepared when we crossed into it. Instantly we went from a cool north breeze to a straight west wind that was super hot sticky and moist. It was by far one of the strangest weather phenomenon I have seen!
Ultimately we paddled on into this headwind for another 4 miles before camping at the Two Hearted River for the night. It was a long spectacular 30 mile day!
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
After a long night of heavy rain...we awoke to yet more rain and a stiff east wind. In our defense we did peer out the tent three times and made a serious attempt to get into our paddling clothes before crawling back into our cozy sleeping bags. We spent a few more hours sleeping before our inspiration came to venture out in the rain...all you can drink coffee and a warm breakfast at the Berry Patch in Paradise. By the time we got back the rain was letting up an the wind clocked out of north. We paddled into that stiff headwind until we came to Whitefish Point. We dared not venture around and so we holed up at the marina. Hopefully tomorrow the wind will let up so we can put in some miles tomorrow.
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
Woke up this morning with a beautiful view of the immense Whitefish Bay. Heading into Tahquamenon Bay it became very apparent that it would be a Bald Eagle day. We saw adults, juveniles and recent fledglings. Lake Superior stayed calm most of day and picked up slightly in the afternoon. Pulled a 30 mile day or so ending in Paradise where we treated ourselves to a burger and beer.
June 14
Well we didn't exactly get on the water on June 12 as planned but the important thing is that as of 10:45 this morning we are officially on our way! The customs officials were super nice getting us our I68 forms but the coast guard looked at us like we were crazy! No bother.
The launch from Ashmun Bay Park in Sault Ste Marie put us just under the international bridge and added a nice backdrop for our festivities. Being on the St. Mary's River to start got us up close and personal with freighters and allowed us to be gradually introduced to Lake Superior herself.
We came up past Brimley State Park and rounded Iroquois Point before completing our 25ish mile day in Pendillis Bay. We stayed at a roadside park and had a well deserved glass of wine with the sunset.
The launch from Ashmun Bay Park in Sault Ste Marie put us just under the international bridge and added a nice backdrop for our festivities. Being on the St. Mary's River to start got us up close and personal with freighters and allowed us to be gradually introduced to Lake Superior herself.
We came up past Brimley State Park and rounded Iroquois Point before completing our 25ish mile day in Pendillis Bay. We stayed at a roadside park and had a well deserved glass of wine with the sunset.
Monday, June 14, 2010
Saturday, June 12, 2010
Well another hectic day is under our belts. Ultimately we have decided to push our launch date back one day due in part to weather and another for our sanity. Tomorrow we shall make our pilgrimage up to Sault Ste. Marie to fill out our I-68 forms, in preparation for a Canadian landing at some point, and then its off to a hotel to put our final touches on the trip. Sunday morning will hopefully bring fair weather and following seas. We anticipate a launch from Ashmun Bay Boat Launch at a decent hour and then its nothing but paddling to be had!
If all goes to plan (which it surely won't) we will average 30 miles a day. For those of you hoping to meet up with is along the water, be sure to stay tuned to what will actually happen mileage-wise! Tomorrow I should have a more formal breakdown of destinations and approximate time frames along with our gear laid out before we actually load the boat down. Stay tuned... the best is yet to come!
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