Our motto for this trip has always been that as soon as things stop being fun, we will stop paddling. Following this last encounter of almost running out of food and spending most of August watching the water instead of paddling has pushed this trip into the no fun realm. We came on this trip to live on Lake Superior and we did. Mom's dream was to see the entire shore of the lake and it just so happens she has seen the remainder of the shore in previous years. That being said, we have decided to end our trip here in Nipigon. The weather is changing very rapidly and sooner than expected. Even the locals are surprised at the winds this season. September could be calm, but it could be worse...hard to say. All we know is that the most isolated part of the shore is yet to come and getting off the lake on our own accord now is much better than being rescued later for any number of reasons. We have seen the many sides of Lake Superior and have been more than happy to have the pleasure to live on her for 75 days.
Mom is going to come back and finish...perhaps even add to this blog to complete the journey. I am off to wherever the wind blows. Virginia first, and then Vermont for my dog, jeep, and kayak. I know I have caught the expedition bug and will be eagerly awaiting my next adventure...wherever it may be.
I would like to thank everybody who has been supporting us along the way (even you readers at home!!). Should you have any questions, comments, or just want to keep in touch, I encourage you to email me: ndromany@gmail.com. Keep your eyes on the SPOT page, I will be adding pictures as soon as I get them onto my computer at home.
Thanks again and I hope to see you on the water someday!!!
Andrea and Brenda
Saturday, August 28, 2010
Day 74- August 26, 2010
Today: 9.79 mi
Trip: 996.19 mi
At 4 AM we woke up to listen to the radio. Our little window of opportunity was closing. The south winds were now predicted to arrive by noon...not good. Mom and I got up and started to evaluatee our options. We narrowed them down to two. The first would be to run for Rossport in the dark and hope to not get caught in the subsiding north wind or building south winds while crossing one of three channels. Our second was to head back toward Bowman Island where there is a fishing camp and hope to catch a ride to the mainland for supplies.
After much debating we agreed better to play it safe then risk being wind bound on another island with no food. We headed back.
Just as soon as we rounded the corner back behind Armour Island we were stopped by a small motor boat. Russ and Sharon greeted us kindly and asked where we were heading. We told them and they invited us to their camp to have coffee. We could even have a ride back to the mainland if we needed. We went in to see their camp. Apparently we had landed in the Embassy of Nirivia. We were presented with articles describing Nirivia and this little piece of paradise. Russ even radioed down to the fish camp to see if they could give us a ride into Nipigon. Gary Lange operator of the camp said he could and after a wonderful breakfast we said farewell to our new friends Russ, Sharon, and William.
Feeling better about our decision to go back we paddled on. We were serenaded by loons and even saw a bear walking the shore. The south winds started to pick up before noon and we were very certain we had made the right decision.
Soon we were at Bowman Island Charters and we breathed a long sigh of relief. Gary Lange welcomed us to his camp. There was a great sand beach for the kayak, a beautiful lodge, cabins, and of course a sauna. We had read about Bowman Island Carters in Bonnie Dahls marina book and knew he ran fishing charters. Apparently he also shuttles kayaks from the Nipigon to Bowman Island and back. How fortunate for us. So we spent the night in the lodge, had a wonderful full dinner of burgers and salad. Tomorrow we shall head to Nipigon, the only freshwater port north of the 49th parallel. Even since the start of this trip, I have wanted to see the northermost point of Lake Superior. I guess I never expected to see it under these circumstances but then again, things just tend to work themselves out.
Trip: 996.19 mi
At 4 AM we woke up to listen to the radio. Our little window of opportunity was closing. The south winds were now predicted to arrive by noon...not good. Mom and I got up and started to evaluatee our options. We narrowed them down to two. The first would be to run for Rossport in the dark and hope to not get caught in the subsiding north wind or building south winds while crossing one of three channels. Our second was to head back toward Bowman Island where there is a fishing camp and hope to catch a ride to the mainland for supplies.
After much debating we agreed better to play it safe then risk being wind bound on another island with no food. We headed back.
Just as soon as we rounded the corner back behind Armour Island we were stopped by a small motor boat. Russ and Sharon greeted us kindly and asked where we were heading. We told them and they invited us to their camp to have coffee. We could even have a ride back to the mainland if we needed. We went in to see their camp. Apparently we had landed in the Embassy of Nirivia. We were presented with articles describing Nirivia and this little piece of paradise. Russ even radioed down to the fish camp to see if they could give us a ride into Nipigon. Gary Lange operator of the camp said he could and after a wonderful breakfast we said farewell to our new friends Russ, Sharon, and William.
Feeling better about our decision to go back we paddled on. We were serenaded by loons and even saw a bear walking the shore. The south winds started to pick up before noon and we were very certain we had made the right decision.
Soon we were at Bowman Island Charters and we breathed a long sigh of relief. Gary Lange welcomed us to his camp. There was a great sand beach for the kayak, a beautiful lodge, cabins, and of course a sauna. We had read about Bowman Island Carters in Bonnie Dahls marina book and knew he ran fishing charters. Apparently he also shuttles kayaks from the Nipigon to Bowman Island and back. How fortunate for us. So we spent the night in the lodge, had a wonderful full dinner of burgers and salad. Tomorrow we shall head to Nipigon, the only freshwater port north of the 49th parallel. Even since the start of this trip, I have wanted to see the northermost point of Lake Superior. I guess I never expected to see it under these circumstances but then again, things just tend to work themselves out.
Day 73- August 25, 2010
Today: 0.0 mi
Trip: 986.40 mi
No surprise here. Wind bound yet again.
The winds did start clocking out of the north. We are hoping they die down enough to let us make it the 18 miles into Rossport. Winds are supposed to be light at midnight and then pick up to south 15 knots late in the day. After the winds start blowing from the south, they will continue through Monday!! We are hoping to wake up early and make a run for Rossport. We have two dinners left (we split one each evening now) so too many more wind days and we are going to be in trouble.
We ate dinner away from our camp again and this time we were visited by a bear. It was across the harbor and did not notice us one bit. We watched for a while and wondered what would happen if we ate dinner here again....what new visitor would be waiting?
Trip: 986.40 mi
No surprise here. Wind bound yet again.
The winds did start clocking out of the north. We are hoping they die down enough to let us make it the 18 miles into Rossport. Winds are supposed to be light at midnight and then pick up to south 15 knots late in the day. After the winds start blowing from the south, they will continue through Monday!! We are hoping to wake up early and make a run for Rossport. We have two dinners left (we split one each evening now) so too many more wind days and we are going to be in trouble.
We ate dinner away from our camp again and this time we were visited by a bear. It was across the harbor and did not notice us one bit. We watched for a while and wondered what would happen if we ate dinner here again....what new visitor would be waiting?
Day 72- August 24, 2010
Today: 0.0 mi
Trip: 986.40 mi
Wind bound again...great. Winds out of the southwest 23 knots and 2 meter waves.
We spent the day going stir crazy. We did not want to hike around too much for fear that we would burn too many calories. We ate very little to conserve our supply and just watched the waves crash into the shore.
Trip: 986.40 mi
Wind bound again...great. Winds out of the southwest 23 knots and 2 meter waves.
We spent the day going stir crazy. We did not want to hike around too much for fear that we would burn too many calories. We ate very little to conserve our supply and just watched the waves crash into the shore.
Day 71- August 23, 2010
Today: 7.33 mi
Trip: 986.40 mi
On the water at 7 this morning. Forecast is calling for a blow and we wanted to cross onto Simpson Island before things picked up too much. We took a stiff headwind heading around Frasier Point and behind Hope and Armour Islands. We came out to McNab Harbour and decided to stop. Things were picking up quicker than we wanted and at least here we had a view of open water.
It was only 10 AM so we rationed out food and made a plan for the next few days. By noon the waves were pushing 4 ft. The fog soon rolled in and we felt pretty isolated. A couple of jetskies came flying by. Watching them jump the waves was quite the entertainment although I have to say that the landings looked less than comfortable.
We walked over some rocks to look at the interior of the harbor while eating dinner. As it was cooking we were visited by a moose!!! Our first of the trip and it was quite the treat. We watched as a cow on her two little ones waded and then swam down the harbor. They never even looked our way and we just watched in awe as they wandered on their way.
Trip: 986.40 mi
On the water at 7 this morning. Forecast is calling for a blow and we wanted to cross onto Simpson Island before things picked up too much. We took a stiff headwind heading around Frasier Point and behind Hope and Armour Islands. We came out to McNab Harbour and decided to stop. Things were picking up quicker than we wanted and at least here we had a view of open water.
It was only 10 AM so we rationed out food and made a plan for the next few days. By noon the waves were pushing 4 ft. The fog soon rolled in and we felt pretty isolated. A couple of jetskies came flying by. Watching them jump the waves was quite the entertainment although I have to say that the landings looked less than comfortable.
We walked over some rocks to look at the interior of the harbor while eating dinner. As it was cooking we were visited by a moose!!! Our first of the trip and it was quite the treat. We watched as a cow on her two little ones waded and then swam down the harbor. They never even looked our way and we just watched in awe as they wandered on their way.
Day 70- August 22, 2010
Today: 22.46 mi
Trip: 979.07 mi
It was great to actually paddle on this paddling trip! We hit the water relatively early and rounded a much calmer Sail Rock and Agate Point. We ducked behind Spar Island and then barely touched Moss Island before crossing over to Flour Island.
Once inside Flour Island we again found ourselves in a network of islands too large to explore in one day. We did poke around a little and had lunch on a very scenic beach. Then we crossed over to St. Ignace Island and headed for the CPR slip. We did not stay long, just enough time to have a coffee and continue on. The forecast is calling for another bout of wind and we need to get to Terrace Bay for our next food drop. Taking inventory we had five dinners total, nine packs of tuna, half a jar of peanut butter, cheese sticks, and protein drink. Today was our last day of normal food rations...time to conserve.
We went between Bowman Island and St. Ignace island and found a few 'camps' along the way. As we rounded the next point the water became very very shallow. We held our breath and thought airy thoughts but alas we struck bottom. For the first time this trip we had to walk our kayak to deeper water. We must be loosing our touch. After a good laugh we found a great spot to camp near Pope Point.
Trip: 979.07 mi
It was great to actually paddle on this paddling trip! We hit the water relatively early and rounded a much calmer Sail Rock and Agate Point. We ducked behind Spar Island and then barely touched Moss Island before crossing over to Flour Island.
Once inside Flour Island we again found ourselves in a network of islands too large to explore in one day. We did poke around a little and had lunch on a very scenic beach. Then we crossed over to St. Ignace Island and headed for the CPR slip. We did not stay long, just enough time to have a coffee and continue on. The forecast is calling for another bout of wind and we need to get to Terrace Bay for our next food drop. Taking inventory we had five dinners total, nine packs of tuna, half a jar of peanut butter, cheese sticks, and protein drink. Today was our last day of normal food rations...time to conserve.
We went between Bowman Island and St. Ignace island and found a few 'camps' along the way. As we rounded the next point the water became very very shallow. We held our breath and thought airy thoughts but alas we struck bottom. For the first time this trip we had to walk our kayak to deeper water. We must be loosing our touch. After a good laugh we found a great spot to camp near Pope Point.
Day 69- August 21, 2010
Toady: 0.0 mi
Trip: 956.61 mi
Oh the crazy things we do! This morning the weather sounded pleasant and from the look of the water in our harbour, it looked like a go. We packed up and felt awful excited about heading out...that was until we made it half a mile. We were just getting to round Sail Rock. The swells were around four feet and were lazily picking the kayaking up and down.
We rounded the corner. As soon as the words "oh dear" hit my mouth I knew we were not going any farther. Those nice little four foot swells were amplified on every shoal from Sail Rock to Agate Point. Paddling farther out we saw the swells hit the shoals, stand up well over my head and then dump. The swells were far enough apart that it was hard to tell where each shoal was definitively and we decided better not to make a mistake and get trashed. We paddled back to shore to re-evaluate.
I was rearing to see the waves better and convinced Mom to bushwhack to the end of the point to have a better look. Going out we made our own path which involved much crawling and sliding. Making it to the other side was worth it though. We spent most of the morning looking, evaluating, and taking pictures. Finding our way for lunch was much nicer with the animal trail we found. It must have been something small because we found ourselves crawling even more. After lunch we were going to try to head out again, but then fog rolled in making it even harder to see where the waves were popping. Defeated we just called it a day and set up camp. Still no moose.
Trip: 956.61 mi
Oh the crazy things we do! This morning the weather sounded pleasant and from the look of the water in our harbour, it looked like a go. We packed up and felt awful excited about heading out...that was until we made it half a mile. We were just getting to round Sail Rock. The swells were around four feet and were lazily picking the kayaking up and down.
We rounded the corner. As soon as the words "oh dear" hit my mouth I knew we were not going any farther. Those nice little four foot swells were amplified on every shoal from Sail Rock to Agate Point. Paddling farther out we saw the swells hit the shoals, stand up well over my head and then dump. The swells were far enough apart that it was hard to tell where each shoal was definitively and we decided better not to make a mistake and get trashed. We paddled back to shore to re-evaluate.
I was rearing to see the waves better and convinced Mom to bushwhack to the end of the point to have a better look. Going out we made our own path which involved much crawling and sliding. Making it to the other side was worth it though. We spent most of the morning looking, evaluating, and taking pictures. Finding our way for lunch was much nicer with the animal trail we found. It must have been something small because we found ourselves crawling even more. After lunch we were going to try to head out again, but then fog rolled in making it even harder to see where the waves were popping. Defeated we just called it a day and set up camp. Still no moose.
Day 68- August 20, 2010
Today: 0.0 mi
Trip: 956.61 mi
Wind day... bummer. It seems we had just gotten back into the swing of thing when along comes a stiff southeast wind, 2 meter waves, and storms. We did poke our heads out of the tent to see if we could at least make a run for Agate Harbour, but the clouds of impending doom, lighting, and thunder drove us back to the tent. Coffee in the rain is always a joy.
The storm did pass and we took a quick hike around to see if there was anything worth noting. Rain drove us back into the tent at noon and it poured until 8 PM. We made a career out of playing solitaire and napping today. Maybe tomorrow will be better.
Trip: 956.61 mi
Wind day... bummer. It seems we had just gotten back into the swing of thing when along comes a stiff southeast wind, 2 meter waves, and storms. We did poke our heads out of the tent to see if we could at least make a run for Agate Harbour, but the clouds of impending doom, lighting, and thunder drove us back to the tent. Coffee in the rain is always a joy.
The storm did pass and we took a quick hike around to see if there was anything worth noting. Rain drove us back into the tent at noon and it poured until 8 PM. We made a career out of playing solitaire and napping today. Maybe tomorrow will be better.
Day 67- August 19, 2010
Today: 23.06 mi
Trip: 956.61 mi
Today was a great day for island hopping. We first crossed over to Magnet Point (with little magnetic disturbance which was a bit disappointing). From there we wandered in and out of the many islands in the bays. Lake Superior was in a great mood with her placid water.
Feeling daring we went through the Barklay Islands and then wandered over to Swede Island to wander around. We had lunch on a cute little cobble beach surrounded by islands. Afterwards we took the interior route between Spain and Borden Islands. The waterway was small but the scenery made it worth every effort. There were small rock cliffs plunging into the crystal blue water. There could have been a gale going on in the big lake and we would have never felt it being so tucked away. Brenda and I both made a note to visit this area again because there was just too much exploring and not enough time.
Our last jump took us across Shesheeb Bay, Otter Island into Pleasant Harbour. Here we set up shop for the night. There were plenty of moose tracks on the beach so we will be keeping our eyes peeled for visitors this evening!
Trip: 956.61 mi
Today was a great day for island hopping. We first crossed over to Magnet Point (with little magnetic disturbance which was a bit disappointing). From there we wandered in and out of the many islands in the bays. Lake Superior was in a great mood with her placid water.
Feeling daring we went through the Barklay Islands and then wandered over to Swede Island to wander around. We had lunch on a cute little cobble beach surrounded by islands. Afterwards we took the interior route between Spain and Borden Islands. The waterway was small but the scenery made it worth every effort. There were small rock cliffs plunging into the crystal blue water. There could have been a gale going on in the big lake and we would have never felt it being so tucked away. Brenda and I both made a note to visit this area again because there was just too much exploring and not enough time.
Our last jump took us across Shesheeb Bay, Otter Island into Pleasant Harbour. Here we set up shop for the night. There were plenty of moose tracks on the beach so we will be keeping our eyes peeled for visitors this evening!
Day 65- August 18, 2010
Today: 11.56 mi
Trip: 931.55 mi
After four days of down time in Silver Islet, Ontario, we were more than ready to hit the water. With Brenda's hand feeling much better and the winds finally subsiding getting back in the kayak was a done deal. Shelly was so kind as to transport us back to Silver Islet from Thunder Bay in the morning and we were on the water just before noon. Saying goodbye to the little town was bitter sweet but we had to make a break with the weather.
We first made a crossing over to Sand Island which put us officially off the Sibley Peninsula. Yay! From there we hit Clark Island, stopped for a lunch break and then made for Hardscrabble Island. The waves picked up just enough to make some funny water as we entered the channel between Porphyry and Edward Island. Try as we might to see a moose, they all eluded us.
We ended up camping on the east end of Edward Island with a great view of the Paps and Magnet Island. It felt good to be back in the saddle again and tomorrow we shall go island hopping!
Trip: 931.55 mi
After four days of down time in Silver Islet, Ontario, we were more than ready to hit the water. With Brenda's hand feeling much better and the winds finally subsiding getting back in the kayak was a done deal. Shelly was so kind as to transport us back to Silver Islet from Thunder Bay in the morning and we were on the water just before noon. Saying goodbye to the little town was bitter sweet but we had to make a break with the weather.
We first made a crossing over to Sand Island which put us officially off the Sibley Peninsula. Yay! From there we hit Clark Island, stopped for a lunch break and then made for Hardscrabble Island. The waves picked up just enough to make some funny water as we entered the channel between Porphyry and Edward Island. Try as we might to see a moose, they all eluded us.
We ended up camping on the east end of Edward Island with a great view of the Paps and Magnet Island. It felt good to be back in the saddle again and tomorrow we shall go island hopping!
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
August 17, 2010
We made it to Canada!!!
Passing through Grand Portage was very nice. We were able to see the Witch Tree, Suzie Islands and at last Pigeon Point. Being chased by a storm as we rounded the point, we ducked into the hole in the wall and took refuge in the cabin there.
Once in Canada, we were making great headway. We paddled along Victoria, Jarvis, and Thompson Island. The crossing over to Pie Island went very well, so well in fact that we were tempted to cross right over to Thunder Cape. Lake Superior had other plans. She blew us off the water just before Turtle Head Point and we holed up on the beach until morning. We knew there were going to be strong wind warning in effect the following day and planned to hit the crossing hard in the morning before the big blow.
5 am, weather radio comes on. "This is the forecast for Friday, August 13, 2010"... what?!? I had no idea it was Friday the thirteenth. Great. They were still calling for big winds in the afternoon so we rolled out of the tent to pack up. The sun was just beginning to light the sky when it happened....bright red sky. Crap, that's strike number two. Try as we might, we swallowed our superstitious ways and headed out for the crossing.
We made it about two miles in when we first heard rumbles. Thunder? Thunder Bay grain elevators? We had no idea but pressed on. More rumbles came and went with nothing too threatening in the clouds. Three miles passed and that was great... no turning back, the crossing was half way over. Just about the time we reached the freighter channel we saw a freighter on the horizon. Perfect. We had to adjust our heading a tad to avoid collision (minor detail) but all in all things went well. We landed in Thunder Cape with nothing more than a few rattled nerves and thanked the lake for being so kind for our crossing.
When we pulled out of Thunder Cape the winds started. We battled a headwind and hit the shore for the occasional thunderstorm and eventually landed in Silver Islet, Ontario. The smell of "Sin" buns filled the air and we found the most fabulous people in the General Store on the water. They have a Tea Room open from 1-5 and serve soup, coffee, and desserts. Great food and people were just what we needed after a cold rainy day.
As the case may be...we have been at Silver Islet since August 13. The high wind warnings turned into gale warnings and as of today the winds are still blowing. Waves were kicking up to 12 feet and wind gusts up to 35 knots. We visited the Tea Room daily and have met some great people from the town. We even had a sauna. For being wind bound, things are not too shabby.
It is also a good thing the winds kicked up for mom. Apparently sometime between Grand Portage and Pie Island she acquired a small blood blister on her hand. The small blister turned into a large blister, ruptured, and caused swelling up her hand and finger. We are thinking a spider is to blame and we were fortunate enough to find someone willing to drive us into Thunder Bay to visit the hospital. She is on antibiotics and we are waiting to see if they work before heading on our journey.
Passing through Grand Portage was very nice. We were able to see the Witch Tree, Suzie Islands and at last Pigeon Point. Being chased by a storm as we rounded the point, we ducked into the hole in the wall and took refuge in the cabin there.
Once in Canada, we were making great headway. We paddled along Victoria, Jarvis, and Thompson Island. The crossing over to Pie Island went very well, so well in fact that we were tempted to cross right over to Thunder Cape. Lake Superior had other plans. She blew us off the water just before Turtle Head Point and we holed up on the beach until morning. We knew there were going to be strong wind warning in effect the following day and planned to hit the crossing hard in the morning before the big blow.
5 am, weather radio comes on. "This is the forecast for Friday, August 13, 2010"... what?!? I had no idea it was Friday the thirteenth. Great. They were still calling for big winds in the afternoon so we rolled out of the tent to pack up. The sun was just beginning to light the sky when it happened....bright red sky. Crap, that's strike number two. Try as we might, we swallowed our superstitious ways and headed out for the crossing.
We made it about two miles in when we first heard rumbles. Thunder? Thunder Bay grain elevators? We had no idea but pressed on. More rumbles came and went with nothing too threatening in the clouds. Three miles passed and that was great... no turning back, the crossing was half way over. Just about the time we reached the freighter channel we saw a freighter on the horizon. Perfect. We had to adjust our heading a tad to avoid collision (minor detail) but all in all things went well. We landed in Thunder Cape with nothing more than a few rattled nerves and thanked the lake for being so kind for our crossing.
When we pulled out of Thunder Cape the winds started. We battled a headwind and hit the shore for the occasional thunderstorm and eventually landed in Silver Islet, Ontario. The smell of "Sin" buns filled the air and we found the most fabulous people in the General Store on the water. They have a Tea Room open from 1-5 and serve soup, coffee, and desserts. Great food and people were just what we needed after a cold rainy day.
As the case may be...we have been at Silver Islet since August 13. The high wind warnings turned into gale warnings and as of today the winds are still blowing. Waves were kicking up to 12 feet and wind gusts up to 35 knots. We visited the Tea Room daily and have met some great people from the town. We even had a sauna. For being wind bound, things are not too shabby.
It is also a good thing the winds kicked up for mom. Apparently sometime between Grand Portage and Pie Island she acquired a small blood blister on her hand. The small blister turned into a large blister, ruptured, and caused swelling up her hand and finger. We are thinking a spider is to blame and we were fortunate enough to find someone willing to drive us into Thunder Bay to visit the hospital. She is on antibiotics and we are waiting to see if they work before heading on our journey.
Monday, August 16, 2010
Sunday, August 8, 2010
Special Note-August 8, 2010
Looking at the map it is plain to see that we are nearing Canada. Unfortunately I will be unable to post everyday but will catch everyone up as I find service areas. I hope you will continue to follow us at:
www.spotadventures.com
Search for adventure name: a superior paddle
From there if you follow our adventure you can get up to the 10- minute detail as to where we are.
Four weeks left to go!!
See you in Michigan!!
www.spotadventures.com
Search for adventure name: a superior paddle
From there if you follow our adventure you can get up to the 10- minute detail as to where we are.
Four weeks left to go!!
See you in Michigan!!
Day 55-August 7, 2010
Oh what to say about today. It was a chilly morning but we had a pleasant paddle into Grand Marais. There was a local festival going on complete with floatplanes taking off from the harbor. We landed with the intention of getting lunch and supplies before taking off. Our plans soon changed.
About 5 mind after landing on the beach we were approached by the DNR. We were questioned about our kayak-moreso as to why it was not registered in MN. Apparently since Michigan and Virginia (our states of residence) do not require registration we needed to register our vessel with the Minnesota DNR. We were given some numbers to call and informed that if we were on the water without registering we would be in for a $135 fine.
Ok, slight problem. We called the numbers. Offices were closed until Monday. Next we tried the local outfitter Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply. They helped us try to register online. We could not because we are not Minnesota residents. The owner tried talking with the DNR to come up with some option. A couple hours later we were left with three. 1)Wait until Monday and catch a ride to Lutsen to the nearest DNR office. 2)Catch a ride to the Canadian Border and skip the last 37 miles of shoreline. 3)Make a run for the border before dawn.
We were not exactly thrilled with any of these options. When we were told that we may encounter more than a fine if we ran we felt even more grim. Especially since we had been talking with the DNR all day, there was no way to sneak.
Finally a solution came through. We were issued a warning ticket with the stipulation that we would purchase a Minnesota registration once back in Michigan. It took hours to get to that point and were delighted to take the deal.
We then geared up from the outfitter and stayed at a campground in the harbor. Not the best time in Grand Marais but at least we had wonderful
People helping us along the way.
Thanks again to all the folks at Stone Harbor, you are a lifesaver!
About 5 mind after landing on the beach we were approached by the DNR. We were questioned about our kayak-moreso as to why it was not registered in MN. Apparently since Michigan and Virginia (our states of residence) do not require registration we needed to register our vessel with the Minnesota DNR. We were given some numbers to call and informed that if we were on the water without registering we would be in for a $135 fine.
Ok, slight problem. We called the numbers. Offices were closed until Monday. Next we tried the local outfitter Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply. They helped us try to register online. We could not because we are not Minnesota residents. The owner tried talking with the DNR to come up with some option. A couple hours later we were left with three. 1)Wait until Monday and catch a ride to Lutsen to the nearest DNR office. 2)Catch a ride to the Canadian Border and skip the last 37 miles of shoreline. 3)Make a run for the border before dawn.
We were not exactly thrilled with any of these options. When we were told that we may encounter more than a fine if we ran we felt even more grim. Especially since we had been talking with the DNR all day, there was no way to sneak.
Finally a solution came through. We were issued a warning ticket with the stipulation that we would purchase a Minnesota registration once back in Michigan. It took hours to get to that point and were delighted to take the deal.
We then geared up from the outfitter and stayed at a campground in the harbor. Not the best time in Grand Marais but at least we had wonderful
People helping us along the way.
Thanks again to all the folks at Stone Harbor, you are a lifesaver!
Day 54-August 6, 2010
Today: 17.21 mi
Trip: 801.32 mi
Late mornings are grand! We slept in, drank coffee, and watched TV. Mundane but oh so much fun.
It was hard to leave all the friendly people from the resort but we had to be heading on. We launched a little after 2 pm and paddled onward. Still feeling good, we bypassed Lutsen and made way for the Cascade River.
Along the shore there were plenty of houses. We could hardly find places to take a break so when we reached the Cascade River we were very excited. During the day the wind had shifted bringing in some bitter cold air. I do believe a chilly night is in store.
Trip: 801.32 mi
Late mornings are grand! We slept in, drank coffee, and watched TV. Mundane but oh so much fun.
It was hard to leave all the friendly people from the resort but we had to be heading on. We launched a little after 2 pm and paddled onward. Still feeling good, we bypassed Lutsen and made way for the Cascade River.
Along the shore there were plenty of houses. We could hardly find places to take a break so when we reached the Cascade River we were very excited. During the day the wind had shifted bringing in some bitter cold air. I do believe a chilly night is in store.
Day 53-August 5, 2010
Today: 8.17 mi
Trip: 784.11 mi
Taconite Harbor was in our sights and our minds this morning. We had a nice following swell, light winds, and no fog. Try to sneak up on us today freighter!!
We made the quick jump to the harbor and continued on. We were in search of a hot shower and some real food. Father Baraga's Cross was perched at the Cross River and we remembered his statue back in Baraga, MI before moving on.
Just outside of Tofte, MN we ran into a kayak guide from Bluefin Bay Resort. He, as well as the rest of the staff we met were more than accomodating. We stated at the resort (not too pricy), ate wonderful food, and even did some laundry! Rest and relaxation is just what we needed.
Trip: 784.11 mi
Taconite Harbor was in our sights and our minds this morning. We had a nice following swell, light winds, and no fog. Try to sneak up on us today freighter!!
We made the quick jump to the harbor and continued on. We were in search of a hot shower and some real food. Father Baraga's Cross was perched at the Cross River and we remembered his statue back in Baraga, MI before moving on.
Just outside of Tofte, MN we ran into a kayak guide from Bluefin Bay Resort. He, as well as the rest of the staff we met were more than accomodating. We stated at the resort (not too pricy), ate wonderful food, and even did some laundry! Rest and relaxation is just what we needed.
Day 52-August 4, 2010
Placid water and clear skies greeted us this morning-quite a warm welcome. After packing up we saw another kayaker and chatted a bit before taking off.
First we passed the Baptism River which boasted a small rock arch nearby. Shovel Point came next with it's near vertical shoreline plunging straight into the lake. At the very tip we saw some overlookers skipping and flailing about. Apparently they were being chased by stable flies and soon they were all over us too.
At the next beach we saw a huge cave that looked like it had a small opening at the end. We took the chance and led The Beast inside. The cave was full of swallows which were constantly darting at our heads. As we rounded the turn toward the exit we had barely six inches of clearance. Victory was ours wand we did not leave a single spec of fiberglass.
Now along this journey we have seem our share of waterfalls. From the tall to short, wide to near non existant we thought we had seen it all but the Manitou River truly shocked us. I am sure there are more fantastic flowing falls with diversions and interesting deviations. The sheet magnitude of the water flowing over the Manitou River falls is unmatched for this expedition. We heard it's thundering sound and saw the spray long before we neared the cove. Once there we sat in awe and wonder.
With sugarloaf cove in our sights we headed on. Clouds were building all around and NOAA called for storms. When we saw clouds of impending doom heading our way, we hit the shore. Nothing came but rain and a beautiful
Rainbow. Things cleared and we made a run for our intended campsite on the water trail. Clouds of impending doom returned. We came to the spot to find the landing to be solid rock. Dang. Our only choice was to race farther and landed on the first cobble beach we came to and set up the tent. It rained, thundered, and then more spectacular rainbows appeared. We could see every color along the entire arch. It was too close to get a picture of it fully. Ironically enough all the rainbow ends just happened to end on shore and in Lake Superior-our pot of gold indeed.
First we passed the Baptism River which boasted a small rock arch nearby. Shovel Point came next with it's near vertical shoreline plunging straight into the lake. At the very tip we saw some overlookers skipping and flailing about. Apparently they were being chased by stable flies and soon they were all over us too.
At the next beach we saw a huge cave that looked like it had a small opening at the end. We took the chance and led The Beast inside. The cave was full of swallows which were constantly darting at our heads. As we rounded the turn toward the exit we had barely six inches of clearance. Victory was ours wand we did not leave a single spec of fiberglass.
Now along this journey we have seem our share of waterfalls. From the tall to short, wide to near non existant we thought we had seen it all but the Manitou River truly shocked us. I am sure there are more fantastic flowing falls with diversions and interesting deviations. The sheet magnitude of the water flowing over the Manitou River falls is unmatched for this expedition. We heard it's thundering sound and saw the spray long before we neared the cove. Once there we sat in awe and wonder.
With sugarloaf cove in our sights we headed on. Clouds were building all around and NOAA called for storms. When we saw clouds of impending doom heading our way, we hit the shore. Nothing came but rain and a beautiful
Rainbow. Things cleared and we made a run for our intended campsite on the water trail. Clouds of impending doom returned. We came to the spot to find the landing to be solid rock. Dang. Our only choice was to race farther and landed on the first cobble beach we came to and set up the tent. It rained, thundered, and then more spectacular rainbows appeared. We could see every color along the entire arch. It was too close to get a picture of it fully. Ironically enough all the rainbow ends just happened to end on shore and in Lake Superior-our pot of gold indeed.
Friday, August 6, 2010
Day 51-August 3, 2010
Today: 8.44 mi
Trip: 756.94 mi
This morning was very foggy and quiet (except for the falcons of course). Most of the fog was offshore and we watched fishing boats coming and going from Silver Bay Harbor. We made our first push to Pellet Island which yielded a great view of Silver Bay Harbor and the freighter dock.
We started to cross the channel at the same time a small motor boat was. We got about halfway across when the wind shifted and the fog rolled in thick. Mom and I both took a compass reading before we lost sight of the dock and then the land just 1/4 mi away. We also lost sight of the motor boat. Lets just say our paddling pace picked up a bit and when the fog began to lift again we could see we were right on track and just passed the red channel buoy. We could barely see land again and we breathed a huge sigh of relief.
Sticking very close to shore now, we came to the harbor fog horn about 5 min later. We just about hit the roof when we heard a large horn offshore answer back! It sounded so close yet we could not see anything and heard no motor. Paddling on we tried to tell ourselves that it was just a large fishing boat that passed.
The winds started to really pick up so we hit the beach just short of Pallisade Head. We watched the fog blow up and over the 900 ft cliff and the large radio tower perched on top. We lost sight of the cliffs more than once and we were happy to not be out in the fog, wind, and waves.
In the early afternoon things calmed down and we headed out. We did see our friendly foghorn friend leave the harbor. It turned out to be a large freighter...too close for comfort I say.
We poked around the caves near the Pallisade Head and camped in Tettegouche State Park with a view of Shovel Point. It may have been a short mile day but I think our stress made up the difference.
Trip: 756.94 mi
This morning was very foggy and quiet (except for the falcons of course). Most of the fog was offshore and we watched fishing boats coming and going from Silver Bay Harbor. We made our first push to Pellet Island which yielded a great view of Silver Bay Harbor and the freighter dock.
We started to cross the channel at the same time a small motor boat was. We got about halfway across when the wind shifted and the fog rolled in thick. Mom and I both took a compass reading before we lost sight of the dock and then the land just 1/4 mi away. We also lost sight of the motor boat. Lets just say our paddling pace picked up a bit and when the fog began to lift again we could see we were right on track and just passed the red channel buoy. We could barely see land again and we breathed a huge sigh of relief.
Sticking very close to shore now, we came to the harbor fog horn about 5 min later. We just about hit the roof when we heard a large horn offshore answer back! It sounded so close yet we could not see anything and heard no motor. Paddling on we tried to tell ourselves that it was just a large fishing boat that passed.
The winds started to really pick up so we hit the beach just short of Pallisade Head. We watched the fog blow up and over the 900 ft cliff and the large radio tower perched on top. We lost sight of the cliffs more than once and we were happy to not be out in the fog, wind, and waves.
In the early afternoon things calmed down and we headed out. We did see our friendly foghorn friend leave the harbor. It turned out to be a large freighter...too close for comfort I say.
We poked around the caves near the Pallisade Head and camped in Tettegouche State Park with a view of Shovel Point. It may have been a short mile day but I think our stress made up the difference.
Day 50-August 2, 2010
Today: 20.39 mi
Trip: 748.50 mi
Well, we may have had at least one hour of quiet last night. Storms trained all night long leaving us with a cold foggy morning. We could barely see the islands just offshore as we launched.
We stayed near the shore so as not to loose our way. Shortly after Castle Danger we could hear a small motor through the fog. The noise continued for quite a while with no change so we thought nothing of it. Once we saw people running out of their homes with binoculars we became even more curious. Then it happened. Out of the fog came three large masts of a tall ship! It looked very eerie and we joked about it looking like ghost ship. The ship stayed with us just offshore all the way to Gooseberry Falls State Park where we stopped for lunch.
After lunch on the beach we hiked up to the falls and stopped by the visitors center to pick up water trail maps. From there we proceeded to Split Rock Lighthouse which was just stunning.
Our long day came to a close just short of Beaver Bay. There was a nice cobble beach tucked between some cliffs. The only drawback were the falcons nesting nearby. They made fore a noisy night.
Trip: 748.50 mi
Well, we may have had at least one hour of quiet last night. Storms trained all night long leaving us with a cold foggy morning. We could barely see the islands just offshore as we launched.
We stayed near the shore so as not to loose our way. Shortly after Castle Danger we could hear a small motor through the fog. The noise continued for quite a while with no change so we thought nothing of it. Once we saw people running out of their homes with binoculars we became even more curious. Then it happened. Out of the fog came three large masts of a tall ship! It looked very eerie and we joked about it looking like ghost ship. The ship stayed with us just offshore all the way to Gooseberry Falls State Park where we stopped for lunch.
After lunch on the beach we hiked up to the falls and stopped by the visitors center to pick up water trail maps. From there we proceeded to Split Rock Lighthouse which was just stunning.
Our long day came to a close just short of Beaver Bay. There was a nice cobble beach tucked between some cliffs. The only drawback were the falcons nesting nearby. They made fore a noisy night.
Day 49-August 1, 2010
Today: 24.78 mi
Trip: 728.11 mi
Good morning Minnesota! It was a beautiful first morning as we hit the water. We saw a few freighters and very scenic shoreline.
It was not long before we came up Agate Bay. I am still amazed by the size of the oar docks and the one in Agate Bay came complete with a freighter. The lighthouse was nice and there were a lot of people out walking around. We decided not to land and continued past the lesser developed Burlington Bay too.
Silver Cliff came next on our journey. As expected, the cliff as a sure sign of the elevation on this part of the lake and there was a tunnel for highway traffic too. Apparently it is one of the longest tunnels in the Midwest.
We were hoping to make more miles today but some approaching storms chased us off the water. Our luck came again. We landed on the beach of an ultra exclusive gated community. Luckily they let us stay without too much trouble.
Trip: 728.11 mi
Good morning Minnesota! It was a beautiful first morning as we hit the water. We saw a few freighters and very scenic shoreline.
It was not long before we came up Agate Bay. I am still amazed by the size of the oar docks and the one in Agate Bay came complete with a freighter. The lighthouse was nice and there were a lot of people out walking around. We decided not to land and continued past the lesser developed Burlington Bay too.
Silver Cliff came next on our journey. As expected, the cliff as a sure sign of the elevation on this part of the lake and there was a tunnel for highway traffic too. Apparently it is one of the longest tunnels in the Midwest.
We were hoping to make more miles today but some approaching storms chased us off the water. Our luck came again. We landed on the beach of an ultra exclusive gated community. Luckily they let us stay without too much trouble.
Day 48-July 31, 2010
Today: 21.22 mi
Trip: 703.33 mi
What a difference a day can make! It was gloomy when we paddled across the Superior Entrance but as soon as we crossed, everything changed. No joke! The sun came out, there were people on the beach and the water returned to the deep crystal blue we love.
Lunchtime approached as we neared the Duluth Entry. The lift bridge horn sounded and scared us but we were incredibly surprised to see a tall ship come through. The ship came out into the lake and raised all of its sails. What a grand sight.
On the shore we mingled with the locals and took in the many of the sights. We say a few more tall ships sail around and two had a mock battle when they met under the lift bridge. Cannons fired and horn were bellowing but in the end all survived.
After our long lunch we felt energized by the excitement in the air and continued on our journey. As our luck would have it, just as we were trying to cross the Duluth entrance, a mini freighter called the Sundew staged itself to enter. The good thing was he took up most of the channel so we crossed just behind him. He blocked many of the out going vessels which made for a fairly easy crossing.
Since we had been looking at the debris filled beaches the past few day we welcomed the rock shoreline of Minnesota. We paddled past many roadside parks, small cobble beaches, and people out enjoying life. We camped on a small cobble beach near the road and enjoyed the lights of Duluth before heading to bed.
Trip: 703.33 mi
What a difference a day can make! It was gloomy when we paddled across the Superior Entrance but as soon as we crossed, everything changed. No joke! The sun came out, there were people on the beach and the water returned to the deep crystal blue we love.
Lunchtime approached as we neared the Duluth Entry. The lift bridge horn sounded and scared us but we were incredibly surprised to see a tall ship come through. The ship came out into the lake and raised all of its sails. What a grand sight.
On the shore we mingled with the locals and took in the many of the sights. We say a few more tall ships sail around and two had a mock battle when they met under the lift bridge. Cannons fired and horn were bellowing but in the end all survived.
After our long lunch we felt energized by the excitement in the air and continued on our journey. As our luck would have it, just as we were trying to cross the Duluth entrance, a mini freighter called the Sundew staged itself to enter. The good thing was he took up most of the channel so we crossed just behind him. He blocked many of the out going vessels which made for a fairly easy crossing.
Since we had been looking at the debris filled beaches the past few day we welcomed the rock shoreline of Minnesota. We paddled past many roadside parks, small cobble beaches, and people out enjoying life. We camped on a small cobble beach near the road and enjoyed the lights of Duluth before heading to bed.
Day 47-July 30, 2010
Today: 16.87 mi
Trip: 682.11 mi
Another gloomy day greeted us this morning on Superior. We packed to leave when mom noticed the rudder had jammed. It was a semi-painless fix and within half an hour we were back on track.
We had another day of following seas and dirty beaches. There were a few fishing boats bobbing in the waves with us as we tried to make our way to Superior, WI. It stayed gloomy all day. Even when we landed just four miles from the the Superior Entrance Light we were unable to see the city.
Rain chased us to the tent early. Hopefully tomorrow will brighten our spirits.
Trip: 682.11 mi
Another gloomy day greeted us this morning on Superior. We packed to leave when mom noticed the rudder had jammed. It was a semi-painless fix and within half an hour we were back on track.
We had another day of following seas and dirty beaches. There were a few fishing boats bobbing in the waves with us as we tried to make our way to Superior, WI. It stayed gloomy all day. Even when we landed just four miles from the the Superior Entrance Light we were unable to see the city.
Rain chased us to the tent early. Hopefully tomorrow will brighten our spirits.
Day 46-July 29, 2010
Today: 20.07 mi
Trip: 665.24 mi
Ah...to be on the water again! NOAA predicted a tail wind, so of course we had a headwind all day. We said goodbye to our new friends and made way to Port Wing. Rocks lined the shore the whole way there. The are was rather desolate except for a few houses on the beach near the harbor entrance.
I was not feeling well (pizza left overnight) so we pulled off early for lunch. Apparently I picked a great place to get sick for we landed on our best agate beach yet! Three hours later we were back on the water with headwinds and heavy pockets.
As we neared the Iron River, Lake Superior took on a rather dull, pasty orange color. We were thinking it might be from the river but found that the color intensified as we went along. We could barely see the ends of our blades in the water and ran into shallow water a couple of times. The only indicator was the rudder as it banged against rocks. Beaches in the area were also strange. Many were littered with fallen tree debris and were shallow and lined with shrubs.
We were not impressed with the area but we did decide to camp on the Brule River. There was a small 'end of the road' park which we did not investigate and we were in the tent shortly after landing.
Trip: 665.24 mi
Ah...to be on the water again! NOAA predicted a tail wind, so of course we had a headwind all day. We said goodbye to our new friends and made way to Port Wing. Rocks lined the shore the whole way there. The are was rather desolate except for a few houses on the beach near the harbor entrance.
I was not feeling well (pizza left overnight) so we pulled off early for lunch. Apparently I picked a great place to get sick for we landed on our best agate beach yet! Three hours later we were back on the water with headwinds and heavy pockets.
As we neared the Iron River, Lake Superior took on a rather dull, pasty orange color. We were thinking it might be from the river but found that the color intensified as we went along. We could barely see the ends of our blades in the water and ran into shallow water a couple of times. The only indicator was the rudder as it banged against rocks. Beaches in the area were also strange. Many were littered with fallen tree debris and were shallow and lined with shrubs.
We were not impressed with the area but we did decide to camp on the Brule River. There was a small 'end of the road' park which we did not investigate and we were in the tent shortly after landing.
Day 45-July 28, 2010
Today: 0.0 mi
Trip: 645.17 mi
Now when Lake Superior kicks up storms as she did yesterday, she needs a day to calm down. It came as no surprise then that the waves and wind were too big to fight and we called it another wind day.
After coffee and breakfast at Tracy's we wandered over to our neighbors from Ontario to chat a bit. We were wined and dined with splendid conversation to boot well past lunch and almost to dinner. We decided to headed back to Woody's for pizza as recommended by our new found friends.
For an off day though we did some wildlife. We saw a few fox (one peed on our tent!), raccoons, and even a large black bear! Apparently Herbster has elk, wolves, and other critters that we were not fortunate enough to see.
Trip: 645.17 mi
Now when Lake Superior kicks up storms as she did yesterday, she needs a day to calm down. It came as no surprise then that the waves and wind were too big to fight and we called it another wind day.
After coffee and breakfast at Tracy's we wandered over to our neighbors from Ontario to chat a bit. We were wined and dined with splendid conversation to boot well past lunch and almost to dinner. We decided to headed back to Woody's for pizza as recommended by our new found friends.
For an off day though we did some wildlife. We saw a few fox (one peed on our tent!), raccoons, and even a large black bear! Apparently Herbster has elk, wolves, and other critters that we were not fortunate enough to see.
Day 44- July 27, 2010
Today: 0.0 mi
Trip: 645.17 mi
Now, NOAA weather radio is wrong about 99.9% of the time. Even so, when they are calling for waterspouts, hail, 40 mph gusts and tornadoes it is hard to ignore. The thunder in the distance sealed the deal and we decided to stay in Herbster another day.
We walked into town, this time to eat at Tracy's, the other restaurant in town. Bottomless coffee, a buttery breakfast, and being questioned by the locals was our morning. We pretty much met the town, handed out our blog, and went on our way. Did I mention Herbster has a laundromat? Well it does and that is just how we spent our afternoon. Clean clothes are wonderful!
By the time dinner rolled around we had had a thunderstorm, tornado watch, and a tornado warning issued. Barbara from Ontario insisted we take shelter in her camper if this really picked up. Instead we headed back to Tracy's to watch TV and hear the going ons. All in all there were three tornadoes, two within 20 miles of our camp. We were glad we stayed put and went to bed after the last thunderstorm rolled through and a double rainbow made a showing.
Trip: 645.17 mi
Now, NOAA weather radio is wrong about 99.9% of the time. Even so, when they are calling for waterspouts, hail, 40 mph gusts and tornadoes it is hard to ignore. The thunder in the distance sealed the deal and we decided to stay in Herbster another day.
We walked into town, this time to eat at Tracy's, the other restaurant in town. Bottomless coffee, a buttery breakfast, and being questioned by the locals was our morning. We pretty much met the town, handed out our blog, and went on our way. Did I mention Herbster has a laundromat? Well it does and that is just how we spent our afternoon. Clean clothes are wonderful!
By the time dinner rolled around we had had a thunderstorm, tornado watch, and a tornado warning issued. Barbara from Ontario insisted we take shelter in her camper if this really picked up. Instead we headed back to Tracy's to watch TV and hear the going ons. All in all there were three tornadoes, two within 20 miles of our camp. We were glad we stayed put and went to bed after the last thunderstorm rolled through and a double rainbow made a showing.
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